422 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

the cost of transport and charges they will forward on freight for
sale in England by the Company's annual ship from 5000 to 6000.
"31. Governor Etoline informed me that there was a negotia-
tion at present in progress between the Russian American Company
and the Imperial Government, with a view to placing the Civil
Government of Kamschatka in the hands of the Company and of
afifording them the exclusive right of the importation and sale of
foreign produce and manufactures to the inhabitants, likewise the
exclusive right of trading and hunting furs on the coast & in the
interior of that Province. Should that arrangement take effect, of
which Govr. Etoline did not entertain the smallest doubt, he said
in that case a further quantity of grain, say about 10,000 Bushels
Wheat would be required from the Country with the annual cargo
of British produce and manufactures from England equal to 400
tons, 200 of which would be required for Sitka and the other 200
for Kamschatka; and that whether the arrangement with respect to
Kamschatka be carried into efifect or not they will require by the
Company's annual ship about 200 tons British produce and manu-
factures from and after the shipment of 1842. 

"The Governor expressed himself as highly satisfied with the
Otter skins that had been received by them from the Company in
fulfilment of the contract of sale entered into, likewise with the
wheat and other agricultural produce that had been d'elivered under
the same contract, for which payment had been duly made by his
Bills on St. Petersburg transmitted: so that I am in hopes our pres-
ent dealings with our Russian neighbours from which the country
derive important advantages, are but an earnest of future and more
extended business operations, and as I hope to see Govr. Etoline
again on my way to Siberia and Baron Wrangell and the Board of
Directors of the Russian American Company as I pass through St.
Petersburg it is more than probable that further extended business
transactions mav be determined upon previous to my return to
England. 

"32. The Russian American Company have not yet abandoned
their establishment of Bodega in California being unable to effect
a sale of their buildings and stock; that stock consists principally of
sheep, cattle, horses. Agricultural implements. &c, all of which has
for some time past been offered for sale at the round sum of 30,000 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 423 

dollars. Govr. Etoline however foreseeing the difficulty of obtaining
payment shoulia sale be effected to any of the people in California,
said he should feel disposed to accept a much lower price from the
Hudson's Bay Company and 1 have no doubt that the whole might be
purchased at from 15,000 to 20,000 dollars. The Russian American
Company admit that they have no title to the soil beyond that which
they have acquired by occupation; this the Mexican Government
does not recognize but they cannot dislodge them, the Russian force
there having usually been 150 men, although now that they are about
to withdraw it is reduced to 50. Bodega is not well situated for
trade nor is the country well adapted for Agriculture; and as any
title the Russian American Company could give us would be of no
avail unless backed by a force of 80 to 100 men I do not see that any
good object can be gained by making the purchase on any terms.
Under these circumstances I made him no offer nor did I encourage
the hope of our becoming purchasers. 

"33. After passing 4 days at Sitka, where we experienced the
utmost kindness & hospitality, we took our departure on the 30th
September, retracing our steps along the coast and again calling at
Stikine, Fort Simpson & Fort McLoughlin. In coming through
Johnston's Straits we were suddenly enveloped in a dense fog in a part
of the Straits not exceeding two miles in breadth where there was
a tideway <if 12 to 14 knots an hour of which we were the sport for
13 hours: during this time the vessel was quite unmanageable as we
could not see the land, lost the best bower Anchor, disabled the small
bower and were unable from the strength of the current to take
soundings with two deep sea leadlines fastened together in places
where at the slack of the tide we afterwards ascertained the depth of
water was from 25 to 30 fathoms. In the course of those 13 hours
the current hustled the vessel up and down the Straits witii incredible
speed, but fortunately there was an offset from the land which kept
her in deep water until the fog dispersed, when the steam was got up
and enabled us to escape from this extraordinary tideway without any
other loss than the Anchor in question, as the injury done to the other
has since been repaired. 

"34. It was my intention to have gone into Fraser's River with
a view of visiting Fort Langlev but being uncertain whether the ship
by which I was to proceed to the Sandwich Islands might not be 

42i BRITISH COLUMBIA 

waiting for me and being unwilling to detain her I proceeded direct
to Puget Sound, intending to visit Fort Langley on my return to
Sitka next Spring. Fort Langley is situated in Lat: 49 6', Long:
I22°47', and it is intended to collect the trade of the numerous tribes
inhabiting the mainland coast and East Coast of Vancouver's Island
from Lat: 48° to Point Mudge in Lat: 50°, and from Long. 121 "50'
to Long: 124^ The complement of people at this place is an officer
and 17 men, the returns in furs amounting to about £2500, and in
salted salmon for market, say about 400 barrels to about £800, the
profits on the post being about £1600 pr. annum. The establish-
ment was destroyed by fire about 18 months ago, but has since then
been rebuilt on a larger scale. There is an excellent farm in the
immediate neighbourhood, the produce of which with fish and veni-
son maintains the establishment, and assists in provisioning some of
the others on the coast. This has for a length of time been a very
well regulated post, but as the country has been closely wrought for
many years the returns in furs are gradually falling ofif but the increas-
ing marketable produce of the Fisheries makes up for that deficiency.
"35. On our way back to Fort V^ancouver where we arrived on
the 22nd Octr., our voyage to & from Sitka and the other establish-
ments already mentioned, having occupied 52 days, I had another
opportunity of visiting the establishments of Nisqually and the Cow-
litz Farm the former of which may be said principally to be occu-
pied & the latter entirely so with the afTairs of the Puget Sound
Company. The furtrade of Nisqually extends along the coast &
Interior Country to Cape Flattery, likewise to the shores of Puget
Sound & North as far as the Northern end of Whidbey's Island, the
returns amounting to about £1500, the profits on which is about
£700 p. annm. The complement of people chargeable to the Fur-
trade is an officer and 6 men, with 4 shepherds and herdsmen, besides
the occasional services of Indians chargeable to the Puget Sound
Company. 

(36 to 67 paragraphs follow) 

"I have the honour to be, with much respect, 

"Honble. Sirs, 

"Your mo: obedt. humble servt, 

"George Simpson." 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 425 

It is not possible to give in full the history of each post, but the
foregoing at least may serve to illustrate the work of the founder and
builder of the West. Enough has been said to give an idea of his
trials and vicissitudes and of the wonderful organization by means
of which so much was accomplished in the face of such difficulties
as could only be encountered in a primeval wilderness, far from
civilization. The pioneer trader was no paragon; he was a strong
man who bore his part in laying the foundations for future genera-
tions to build upon. He did his work from day to day, from year to
year, unnoticed and unknown, and in the doing bequeathed to pos-
terity a splendid example of devotion to duty which may well be
emblazoned on the scroll of history.

BRITISH COLUMBIA 417 

would be highly injurious to them, but should they alter their present
view of the subject and object to the extension of the arrangement
.beyond the year 1850, it will in that case be advisable to establish
three posts in the Interior say one from 40 to 50 miles up the Stikine
River, another on the banks of the river falling into the head of Lynn's
Canal where we should be well received by the Chilcat nation; and
a third on the banks of a Lake situated inland from Admiralty or
Behrings Inlet near the Northern British Boundary at Mount St.
Elias, where our presence and high opposition prices would greatly
disturb the Russian trade as far North as Cook's Inlet. Such a
measure however I hope will not be necessary as the Russian Ameri-
can Company must be well aware that they benefit by the good feeling
arising from the existing arrangement whereas a discontinuation
thereof would bring us in collision with them by which their inter-
ests would be greatly aft'ected. 

"22. The trade of the North West Coast which need not under
any circumstances be ever estimated at more than 10,000 Beaver &
Otter besides small furs is understood to be that of the coast and
islands extending Northwards from Point Mudge, which is situated
inside of Vancouver's island in about Lat: 50° — Fort Simpson being
the most central point and principal establishment upon that coast
is considered the depot of the district, although the outfits for the
different posts have heretofore been made up at Vancouver & con-
veyed direct to the establishments which together with the transport
to Sitka has this year been the principal employment of the barque
Columbia, the Schooner Cadboro and the Beaver steam vessel. 

"23. The trade of the coast cannot with any hope of making it
a profitable business afford the maintenance of so many establish-
ments as are now occupied for its protection, together with the ship-
ping required for its transport, nor does it appear to me that such
is necessary as I am of opinion that the establishments of Fort
McLoughlin Stikine & Tacow might be abandoned without any
injury to the trade and that the establishment of Fort Simpson
alone with the Beaver steamer will answer every necessary and use-
ful purpose, in watching and collecting the trade of the whole of that
line of coast the transport of supplies and returns to be accomplished
in one trip of a sailing vessel from Fort Vancouver to Fort Simpson.
Under this arrangement the steamer would be constantly employed in 

Vol 1—27 

418 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

visiting the principal trading stations between the Quakeolith village
in about Lat: 50°30' to the Northward of Johnston's Straits and Cape
Spencer the Northern entrance of Cross Sound. These stations she
could visit at stated periods six times a year, which would be suf-
ficiently often for the purpose of collecting the trade and of sup-
plying the Indians and would be more convenient to the natives
generally than the permanent trading establishments now occupied,
which many of the more remote Indians are unable to visit, in some
instances on account of the distance and in others from an appre-
hension of difficulty with the home-guards at the different posts,
who look upon such visits with much jealousy desirous as they are
of having the trade entirely in their own hands by acting as middle-
men between the Fort and those distant tribes, in order that they
may have the benefit of an agency by the transaction; indeed I am of
the opinion that when once the steam vessel comes into regular opera-
tion so as to visit the different trading stations at stated periods the
returns of the coast will materially increase as it will render our
intercourse much more frequent with the natives than it would other-
wise be, and thereby bring our supplies into more general use among
them than they now are, and consequently stimulating them to 

industry. 

"24. The principal objection to this extended alteration in the
arrangements of the coast trade is the possibility of another attempt
being made to disturb it by American opposition: of that however
I have no apprehension as it is perfectly ascertained that 'the late
adventurers upon the Coast have lost money by their attempts upon
the trade, and as they cannot afford a sacrifice of means in what they
must know to be a hopeless attempt to dislodge us, I do not think
they will ever interfere with us again in this quarter. But even
should they be disposed to make the experiment it could only be on
the line of coast to the Southward of Lat: 54, which is open to them
pending the adjustment of the Boundary question between Great Bri-
tain and the United States, which however the establishment of Fort
Simpson, with the presence of the Beaver steamer, or any other
vessel is sufficient to protect. — The country to the Northward of Lat:
54°, being Russian territory is under any circumstances safe from
opposition being protected both by treaty and by the Russian Ameri-
can Company. The trade of that part of the Coast, say the Russian 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 419 

territory will be more effectually protected by the Beaver steamer
from anv possible breach of good faith on the part of our Russian
neighbours than by the posts now occupied; but I have not the least
apprehension of any unfair dealing on the part of our neighbours,
on the contrary I feel perfectly satisfied they will honourably fulfil
in spirit and to the letter all their engagements with us. 

"25. The saving that would be effected by this alteration in the
mode of conducting the business of the Coast would amount to
upwards of £4000 p. annm. besides leaving the shipping disposable
for other important services a portion of the time now occupied in
that branch of trade. 

"26. It might be urged that in the event of any accident occurring
to the steam vessel the trade of the Coast to the Southward of the
Russian Boundary Line would become exposed, but before any oppo-
sition could avail itself of our unprotected condition arising from that
cause the accident might be repaired, or we should be in a situation
to supply her place either by establishing a post or by the presence
of a sailing vessel, until another steamer could be got from England,
as in the event of the loss of the Beaver I would strongly recommend
(notwithstanding a difference of opinion on this subject with Gen-
tlemen for whose judgment I have a very high respect) I consider
that another steamer should be provided with as little delay as pos-
sible. My reason for so saying is — that I consider a vessel of that
description peculiarly adapted for the inland navigation between
Puget Sound and Cross Sound, and that the transport business of
those inland seas cannot without the assistance of a steam vessel be
done justice to, while her presence in my opinion has had more effect
in overawing the natives of the coast and expelling opposition there-
from than any other means that could have been adopted. 

"27. The climate of the North West Coast differs very much
from that of the country to the Southward of Lat: 49° arising I
conceive in addition to the difference of Latitude, in a great degree
from the character of the country, which north of that point is exceed-
ingly mountainous and the tops of many of the higher mountains
covered with perpetual snows; while North of Stikine glaciers are
to be seen in many of the valleys to the waterside and floating ice in
several of the canals & Straits all the year round. From our depar-
ture from Red River Settlement up to the time of our arrivnl at 

420 ' BRITISH COLUMBIA 

Stikine we had the finest weather that can be well imagined, but
there it became wet and stormy, and at Tacow we were detained in
consequence three days, starting from thence on the 25th, and passing
through Stephen's Passage, Peril and Chatham Straits arrived at
Sitka on the 26th, where we were received with every mark of kind-
ness and attention by Governor Etoline and the other Russian officers
at that establishment. 

"28. Sitka, or New Archangel, situated in Norfolk Sound in Lat:
57° Long: 136°, is the great depot of the Russian American Com-
pany from whence nearly all its outposts and dependencies on the
North West Coast likewise in the Aleutian and Kurile Islands are
principally supplied. Here they have a steam vessel which was
originally intended as a protection to their trade from any attempt
that might be made upon it by the Hon. Company, previous to the
amicable arrangement that has been entered into; but being no longer
required for that object it is now principally employed in collecting
the trade of the Islands and in towing their sailing vessels out of and
into harbour. She is built upon the plan of an American River boat
and although she cost £5000 to £6000, is by no means a good or serv-
iceable vessel. They have moreover a small steam tug, with twelve
sailing vessels from 120 up to 350 tons burden, employed in their
transport business in the country; besides a number of small craft of
from 10 to 50 tons attached to their different hunting and trading
establishments. The large vessels usually winter at Sitka and during
that season there is an establishment of people at that place of exceed-
ing 400 officers and servants, which with families, makes the popula-
tion of Sitka upwards of 1200 souls, independent of a numerous
Indian village, situated immediately under the guns of the forts. 

"29. The mode of conducting their business dififers very much
from that which we pursue being characterized by a formal routine
and display, in humble imitation of a Government establishment,
admitting in my opinion of many improvements and of curtailments
or reductions, which of themselves would produce a very considera-
ble gain in the shape of savings. Their entire collections both on
the American and Asiatic shores are about: — 

"1000 sea otters 

"13000 Fur seals 

"12000 Beaver 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 421 

"5000 Land Otters of which 2000 are the rent paid by the Hud-
son's Bay Coy for the Russian territory held by them. 

"Small furs 

"loooo sea Horse Teeth. 

"Their tarifif of trade is very nearly the same as ours, but notwith-
standing the terms of the convention between Great Britain and
Russia of Feby., 1825, I find that a considerable quantity of spiritu-
ous liquors is disposed of by them to Indians in barter for both furs
and provisions. We have discontinued the use of that article upon
the Coast as a medium of barter except in the immediate vicinity
of Russian establishments ever since the Americans have withdrawn,
and the natives are become so perfectly reconciled to the privation
that in the whole course of my travels this season where the use of
it was discontinued, I only heard one enquiry respecting the article
of Rum. With a view to the wellbeing of the Indian population of
the coast and to guard as much as possible against even the sem-
blance of competition, I suggested to Governor Etoline that the use
of spirituous liquors should be discontinued by both parties on a date
that may hereafter be agreed upon, previous to the 31st December,
1843, and I have much satisfaction in saying that he readily assented
to this arrangement. 

"30. All the furs collected by our Russian neighbours are sent
to Ochotsk where they are made up for the Russian and Chinese mar-
kets. The article of sea horse teeth cannot bear the charge of inland
transport they therefore retain the collections of that article until
opportunities cast up every third or fourth year of sending them by
sea to St. Petersburg and as so large a quantity, imported at one time
naturally gluts the Russian market, they are willing either to enter
into a contract with the Hon. Company for the sale of half their
annual collections at a price that may be agreed upon or to send that
quantity by our annual ship for England on freight, as a consign-
ment to be disposed of by the Company on their account and with
that view about half a ton is now forwarded as a specimen of the
quality of the ivory. I could not learn that the hides of those animals
have ever been sent to market: they are very thick and heavy and
might I think be applied to some useful purpose in England. A
few of them are therefore sent by the barque Columbia on account
of the Russian American Company and if they clear anything beyond 

412 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

the Hon. Company and of the Puget Sound Company it is unneces-
sary here to make any remarks on that part of the journey. 

''i6. Starting from Nisqually situated in Lat. 47' 8' N. and Long.
122° 2' W. on the shores of Puget Sound on the 6th September we
proceeded Northwards between Vancouver's Island and the main-
land passing through Johnston's Straits, Queen Charlotte's Sound
and inside Colvert's Island to Fort McLoughlin, situated on an
island near Mill Bank Sound (the position of which is in Lat. 52° 6'
Long. 132° 6'), where we arrived on the 15th September, having of
the ten days occupied in getting from Nisqually to Fort McLough-
lin been detained wood cutting, trading with the Quakeolith New-
ettee tribes and wind and fog-bound about half the time. This
establishment employing a complement of 12 men besides the officer
in charge collects about 1500 beaver & otter besides small furs,
the value of the returns being from £2500 to £3chdo the charges
amounting to about £1400 and the nett profits to about £1200. It is
visited by about 5200 Indians the natives of seven villages; the trade
extending from Smith's Inlet in Lat: 51° up to Hawkesbury island
in about Lat: 52° 45'; and interiorly to a range of mountains that
divides that part of the coast from the interior of New Caledonia.
While American opposition existed on the Coast the establishment
of Fort McLoughlin might have been necessary for the protection of
the trade, but in another part of this dispatch, I hope to show that
this establishment may now with others be abandoned without either
loss or inconvenience to the business, while the saving that would
arise from such abandonment will greatly increase the present profits
of the trade of the Coast, North of Fraser's River district. Fort
McLoughlin is principally maintained on country provisions, say
Fish in great abundance and variety, venison and potatoes, and the
natives who were at one time troublesome comparatively peaceable
towards the establishment, more from a feeling that they are to a
certain extent in our power than from any good disposition towards
us. 

"17. We took our departure from Fort McLoughlin on the i6th
and passing through Princess Royal's & Grenville Canals and Chat-
ham Sound arrived at Fort Simpson the following day. This estab-
lishment which is the most important on the Coast is situated in
about Lat: 54° 34' Long: 130° 38', near Dundas Island and close 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 413 

upon the Southern Russian Boundary. It is visited by a great many
Indians occupying the Islands and continental shores to a consider-
able distance among whom are the inhabitants of five villages on the
mainland; likewise by the natives of Queen Charlotte's Island, the
inhabitants of Tomgass and by those of Kygarnie one of the islands
forming the Prince of Wales Archipelago (Russian Territory) in
all a population of about 14,000 souls. From this will be seen that
the range of its trade is very great and if the existing arrangement
with our Russian neighbours had not been entered into, opposition
prices would have drawn to Fort Simpson a considerable portion of
the furs now collected at Stikine. The present returns are from
3000 to 4000 Beaver and otter, about 50 sea otter and a large quantity
of small furs, the gross amount being about £6000, of which about
£3000 forms the amount of charges so that the nett revenue arising
from this post may be estimated at £3000 pr. annm. The estab-
lishment was in the first instance placed at the outlet of Nass River,
but the situation being found inconvenient for shipping, it was
removed to its present site which is besides being a good position for
watching our own Northern and the Russian Southern frontier, well
adapted for opposing both the Russians and the Americans should
such at any time hereafter become necessary. 

"There is a complement of two officers and 18 servants at this post,
where the means of living are abundant, consisting principally of
Fish, venison, and potatoes, and a large body of Chimsseans have
seated themselves down in the neighbourhood as the home guards of
the Fort. In any point of view this is a valuable and important
establishment and ought by all means to be maintained as the depot
of the Coast while we have anything to do with its affairs. 

"18. Leaving Fort Simpson on the i8th we immediately entered
within the Russian Southern Boundary and passing through Canal
de Reveilla and Clarence Straits arrived at Stikine on the 20th. 

"This establishment of which we obtained possession on the ist
June last year (1840), under the arrangement of 6th Feby., 1839, is
situated on the North end of the Duke of York's Island near Point
Highfield, 4 to 1; miles South of the Outlet of the Stikine or Pelly's
River in Lat: ';6°33' Long. 132° 14' and vvas in the first instance
formed here by the Russian American Company in 1833 with the
view of protecting their trade, which they had every reason to sup- 

4U BRITISH COLUMBIA 

pose would be endangered by the establishment which the Hon.
Company then contemplated forming within the British territory up
the Stikine River. 

"The post is frequented by Secatquonay who occupy the country
about the mouth of the river and the islands contiguous to and run-
ning parallel to that part of the coast. It is likewise frequented by
the natives of three villages situated on islands, to the trade of which
we do not consider that we have any claim under the existing agree-
ment. Nearly all the furs collected at this post, which are appro-
priated by us are brought from the British interior territory amount-
ing to about 1500 Beaver and otter, besides small furs estimated at
about £3000 of which £1500 forms an item of charge so that the
nett profits of the post are about £1500 pr. annum. The furs appro-
priated by us are principally traded by the Secatquonays from the
Niharnies and other Indians of the Interior, some of whom have
been seen at the Establishment in the Mackenzie River. The Secat-
quonays meet those Indians for the purpose of barter about 150 miles
distant from the Coast, where the Niharnies have a village about 60
miles distant from Dease's Lake, which place they visited in 1838-39.
Nearly all the furs collected at. Stikine are obtained from the Nihar-
nies at that village which is a great fishing rendezvous and is during
the fishing season visited by all the Indians of the neighbourhood.
The complement of people at this establishment is 2 officers and 18
men, which notwithstanding the good disposition shown by the
Indians cannot with safety be reduced. The post is maintained by
fish and venison, which are procured in great abundance from the
natives at a very cheap rate. 

"19. We remained at Stikine but a few hours taking our depar-
ture thence on the afternoon of the 20th and passing through Wran-
gell's Straits and Prince Frederick's Sound arrived at Tacow on the
22nd. This establishment is situated in Lat. 58' 4' Long. 133'' 45' and
was intended to have been placed at the mouth of the Tacow River,
but no favourable situation having been found for an establishment
there, it was erected on its present site on the mainland between two
rivers: the Sitka and Tacow, about 15 miles distant from each. It
is frequented by a great many Indians occupying the continental
shore, both to the Northward and Southward, likewise by some of the
Islanders; in all' from 4000 to 5000 souls are more or less dependent 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 415 

upon this establishment for their supplies. The returns of the past
outfit were about 1400 Beaver and Otter besides small furs yielding
a profit of about £1000 but from the growing industry of the Indians
to the Northward arising from their being more regularly supplied
with goods than heretofore it is expected that the returns will next
year amount to about 1800 to 2000 Beaver and Otter. 

"The establishment is surrounded by a village containing from
300 to 400 Indians who have recently shown a disposition to be trou-
blesome, more from a jealousv of the encouragement afforded bv us
to other tribes than from any hostile feeling towards ourselves; on
the contrary they, likewise all the Indians in the neighbourhood of
the different establishments, are very much pleased to have us settled
among them, as our presence affords them protection to a certain
degree from their enemies while they benefit in many other respects
by our intercourse with them. The complement of people at this
establishment is 2 officers and 22 men. It is principally maintained
on venison, got here as at the other establishments on the Coast at
so cheap a rate from the natives that we absolutely make a profit on
our consumption of provisif)ns, the skin of the animal selling for
much more than is paid for the whole carcass. Nearly all the returns
collected at this establishment arc brought from the British terri-
tory inland of the Russian line of demarcation running parallel with
the coast, and traded by the coast Indians from those inhabiting the
interior country very few being hunted by themselves. 

"20. Both at Tacow and Stikine, likewise at Fort Simpson some
sea otter and land furs have been collected which the Russian Ameri-
can Company think they have a claim to under the proxisiun of the
agreement of 6th Feby. 1839, and as the article is not quite distinct
an equitable adjustment of the matter has been made with (jovr.
Etoline which has removed all difficulty on the subject. By that
arrangement it has been agreed that the Russian American Company
shall give up to the Hudson's Bay Company at cost prices all conti-
nental furs taken by them to the southward of Cross Sound, anil that
the Hudson's Bay Company shall in like manner give up to the Rus-
sian American Company at cost prices all brought by Indians belong-
ing to the Russian Islands — and there being a iiuestion as to whether
certain Indians the Hoonaquonays of Cross Sound reside principally
on the continental shores or the islands it has been agreed that any 

416 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

sea Otters traded by the Hudson's Bay Company from them shall
be exchanged with the Russian American Company fur Beaver after
the rate of 9>1. full sized Beaver for one full sized sea Otter skin.
Under the strict letter of the agreement, I am not clear that we could
claim these skins, but Governor Etoline acceded to the arrangement
already mentioned in consideration of the Russian American Com-
pany benefitting by the trade of the Indians of the Alsache River,
which empties itself into Port Francois about 40 to 50 miles North of
Cape Spencer under the impression that those Indians make their
hunts to the S. E. of a supposed line drawn from Cape Spencer to
Mount Fairweather, whereby those hunts would belong to the Hud-
son's Bay Company by the agreement of Feby. 1839. 

"21. When the arrangement by which we became possessed of the
Russian territory to the Northward of Lat: 54° was first entered
into, it was in contemplation to form a chain of posts along the Coast
up to the outlet of Cross Sound and from those establishments to form
outposts in the interior, under an impression that the country between
the coast and the Rocky Mountains was of much greater extent,
more numerously inhabited and more valuable than we have since
ascertained it to be. There are only two streams of any magnitude
falling into the ocean between the Russian Southern Boundary and
Cape Spencer, those are the Stikine and Tacow Rivers; the former
being navigable in seasons of high water for about 40 to 50 miles by
the steam vessel and afterwards by canoes, and the latter by small
craft only. There is a range of mountains running along the coast
extending inland about 60 miles beyond which there is a district of
level country partially wooded but as there are few lakes in the inte-
rior it is difficult of settlement except in a direct line between the
great chain of Rocky Mountains and the coast; and as the coast
Indians are in constant communication with those of the Interior it
is not supposed that the presence of establishments would tend materi-
ally to increase the quantity of furs at present collected; so that all
idea of occupying the interior country with posts during the exist-
ence of the present arrangement with the Russians is now abandoned.
I have little doubt that our Russian neighbours will be glad to
prolong the arrangement beyond the expiration of ten years, as inde-
pendent of other considerations it would be a means of avoiding com-
petition in trade with the Hon. Company which they are well aware

BRITISH COLUMBIA 407 

could be wished, the returns of this once valuable district having
fallen off materially during the few past outfits. There has been a
gradual diminution in the quantity of beaver and otter traded for
several years past, but this is the natural result of the exertions that
have been made to prosecute the trade with vigour, with the double
object of benefitting by immediate results, and of rendering the coun-
try less inviting to the numerous United States trapping parties, who
formerly threatened to overrun the whole of the accessible country
on the west side of the Mountains. 

"There has also been a great diminution in the articles of Lynx
and Martens during the last two years, which has caused a rapid
decline on the profits of those compared with the preceding outfits.
From the knowledge which has been acquired by experience of the
habits of those latter animals, however, there is every reason to
believe that this diminution in their numbers is merely temporary
arising either from migration to other quarters or from disease; but
that as soon as those causes shall be removed they will become as
plentiful as formerly and assist in retrieving the present unpromising
aspect of affairs in this district. 

"8. At Walla Walla my next place of call the business appeared
to be in a regular satisfactory state, without any material alteration
having taken place in its condition as regards profits since last
reported upon. In former years and until very lately this was con-
sidered to be a post of danger being surrounded by several warlike
and independent tribes, who were difficult of management but I was
gratified to find that both the natives and the people have improved
greatly in each other's estimation, and that the latter feel in perfect
security although the complement of servants at the post is very
small. I am however concerned to say that the establishment soon
after 1 passed it was destroyed by accidental fire, but without any
serious loss having been incurred as both the furs and goods were
saved. The Indians on this occasion behaved witii great propriety
manifesting much regret at tiie calamity and affording every assist-
ance in their power to save the property. The establishment was in
a very dilapidated condition and was about to be enlarged and
repaired so that the accident will be productive of less inconvenience
than might be supposed. It is here my painful duty to report the
melancholy death of C. T. Pambrun, who lately had charge of this 

408 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

establishment, which was occasioned by an injury sustained in riding
a vicious horse; the death of that Gentleman who was a very active
and efficient officer is a serious loss to the Department. 

"9. Mr. Pambrun having died before the close of outfit 1840/1,
his representatives will be entitled to a half interest only on the cur-
rent outfit say 1 841/2 there is consequently a half i/85th share
vacant which can be made applicable to filling up the full Chief
Trader's interest of one of the Gentlemen recommended for promo-
tion by the Council this year, as stated in the 36th paragraph of my
despatch to your Honours from Red River Settlement, in compliance
with the directions contained in the 23rd par. of your despatch to
myself of this season. 

"10. Two posts, Forts Hall and Boisee, more or less dependent
upon Walla Walla, have for many years past been maintained in
the Snake country with a view of watching any trapping parties
that might present themselves from the United States and of encour-
aging the Snake Nations to direct their attention (which formerly
was principally occupied in the Bufifalo chase) to fur hunting in both
of which objects they have been successful. 

"Inhere is not at present any organized Trapping Expedition
belonging to the United States employed in the Snake country,
although there are several straggling parties, the debris of other
expeditions; one of these parties headed by a Mr. Frabb was this
season cut ofif by a war party of Sioux. They collect some furs in the
Utah country through which the waters of the Rio Colorado pass to
the Southward of the Snake country, and on the Platte and other
head waters of the Missouri. These parties are principally outfitted
with goods forwarded to them from St. Louis and occasionally
receive a few supplies from Forts Hall and Boisee, which are
thrown by us in their way and of which they usually avail them-
selves paying for them in furs. A want of success having of late
made them irregular in their payments there is some doubts that the
merchants of St. Louis, who have heretofore outfitted them, will
continue to provide them with supplies it is probable therefore these
people will become dependent on the Company for the means of fol-
lowing up their operations. Under these circumstances an arrange-
ment is at present contemplated with Captain Bridger, the principal
man among these trappers, by which it is hoped their entire hunts 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 409 

may next year fall into the hands of the Company. Should such
arrangement take effect it would of course be necessary to make
advances to the party and if they should consider it more advan-
tageous to their interest to lose sight of the Company's claims upon
them and decamp, we should in that case benefit by their absence and
would probably occupy some of their late hunting grounds in the
Mexican territory; but should they consider honesty the better pol-
icy and come back with the view of repaying their debts and getting
■a fresh outfit the transaction would likewise in that case be profit-
able, so that our dealings with these people in either event are likely
to be productive of advantage. Independent of the benefits derived
from our intercourse with the Americans, arising from our occupa-
tion of the posts of Forts Hall & Boisee, the presence of those estab-
lishments has stimulated the Snake Indians to industry in fur hunt-
ing; and as there are Beaver still in the country, we are likely to
benefit more by the services of the natives which will be secured by
the maintenance of those posts (at a very moderate expense) for
their convenience than by the employment of a trapping Expedition
in the country while the occupation of those posts enables us to obtain
more or less of the hunts of our late rivals in trade from the United
States. 

"The operations of these trappers being principally confined to.
the American territory east of the Mountains and to the country
situated to the Southward of Lewis and Clark's River and east-
ward of the Bonaventura valley, it cannot be said that they injuri-
ously interfere with us in any shape; but should the mode of dealing
with these people now contemplated be carried into effect they will
be in everything but name the Honblc. Company's servants or
hunters. 

"ii. The Snake Country and its affairs, which until they fell
under the direction of C. F. McLoughlin were in a very disorgan-
ized state and productive of more loss than gain, have for several
years past been managed with so much judgment and address that
they have been a source of prnlit, while in very many instances they
have been ruinous to the United States adventurers who in this (]uar-
ter entered the lists against us, and the want of success that attended
their exertions, frustrated many plans that had been laid both in Bos-
ton and St. Louis of wresting from the Honble. Company the advan- 

410 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

tages they were deriving from their exertions on this side of the con-
tinent. 

"i2. Resuming the narrative of our voyage. We took, our
departure from Walla Walla remaining there but a few hours and
on the 25th August arrived at Fort Vanc(juvcr, where the Intermit-
tent Fever was prevailing as usual at this season of the year. Besides
C. F. McLoughlin & Douglas and the other officers and people
belonging to the Establishment, 1 here found Commodore Wilkes,
Captain Hudson and other officers of the United States Discovery
Expedition. Three of the five discovery vessels were in the river say
the Porpoise, Sloop of War the Flying Fish tender and the Oregon
(late Thomas Perkins) store ship. 

"The Peacock Sloop of War had been totally lost on the Colum-
bia Bar a few weeks previous to my arrival, but the officers and crew
were providentially saved; and the Vincennes Corvette had pro-
ceeded from Puget Sound direct to San Francisco there to await the
arrival of Commodore Wilkes with the other vessels. The Expedi-
tion was preceded by the Schooner JVave with supplies from the
Sandwich Islands. The fFave it will be recollected was the same
vessel that had been chartered by the Hon. Company in the month
of November last for the transport of goods to the Sandwich Islands
and had been rechartered from thence by Commodore Wilkes for the
transport of the supplies in question to the Columbia. 

"13. This Expedition was dispatched by the United States Gov-
ernment in 1838 principally for the purpose of discovery in the Ant-
arctic sea; in that object it had been successful inasmuch as it had on
the same day as a French Expedition fitted out for the like purpose,
but at a distance of several hundred miles, discovered a continent in
Lat: 69° S.. but so completely icebound that nothing more could be
known of it than the bare existence of land, of which I beg to send
proof in a particle of rock from this land of small promise, taken off
an Iceberg. In the course of their voyage they visited Madeira, Rio
Janeiro, Rio Negro, Terra-del-Fuego, New South Shetland, Val-
paraiso, Lima, discovered some new Islands and surveyed others in
the Pacific between the tropics, touched at Port Jackson, from thence
proceeded to the newly discovered continent, which they traced 1800
miles; they afterwards returned to Port Jackson proceeded to New
Zealand, resumed their discoveries in the Polynesian region, thence 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 411 

proceeded to the Sandwich Islands then to the North West Coast of
America, touching at Puget Sound and the Columbia from whence
they intended proceeding to California, thence to the Sandwich
Islands thence to the East Indies and thence home via Cape of Good
Hope. While the Expedition w'as with us they surveyed the coast
from Puget Sound to Eraser's River, made some partial surveys in
the Straits of Juan de Euca and between Cape Elattery and the
mouth of the Columbia River; they likewise surveyed the Columbia
from the Bar to the Cascades Portage and the Willamette up to the
Falls; they moreover made excursions in the Interior crossing from
Puget Sound to Okanagan and visiting Ports Colville and Nez
Perce crossed the Cowlitz Portage and closely examined the country
on the banks of the Willamette forwarding a land party through
the Bonaventura valley to San Erancisco. 

"14. Every civility and attention were shown to Commodore
Wilkes and his officers, and such facilities afforded him for prose-
cuting the objects of the Expedition as our means would admit; and
it is satisfactory to be able to say that the Commodore seemed fully
to appreciate the attention shown to him and his officers, as will
appear from a letter addressed to C. E. McLoughlin & Douglas,
copy of which is herewith forwarded. Both at the Sandwich Islands
and at the Columbia & likewise at Puget Sound the expedition
received supplies from the Hon. Company's Stores amounting at
this place to about £3,000 and at the Islands to £ , for which 

they paid by drafts as advised in thc6ist paragraph. 

" 1 5. Learning that the Beaver steamer was agreeably to previous
arrangement in readiness at Puget Sound to convey me to the North
West Coast on a tour of inspection of the posts in that quarter; and
on a visit to the Russian American Company's principal depot of
Sitka, 1 took my departure from Port Vancouver (after a stay there
of six days) on the ist September, accompanied by C. F". Douglas,
touched at the pastoral establishment on the Multnomah island,
ascended the Cowlit/. River, visited the Puget Sound Company's
tillage Farm at the head of that River, crossed the Cowlitz Portage
to Nisqually, a distance of from 55 to 60 miles and reached that
establishment on the evening of the 4th — but as I shall in another
part of this dispatch have to notice the farming operations both of

402 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

this side of the mountains but to be plain with you my good sir 1 am
tired of it. I would willingly be quit of it." '" 

In New Caledonia, afifairs moved fairly smoothly, though the
turbulent natives of that quarter often gave cause for anxiety. Fort
St. James had already become an important centre. The fort was
rebuilt and enlarged, and beyond the stockade fields and gardens
were cultivated with success. John Stuart retired from the com-
mand of the district in 1824, to be succeeded by William Connolly,
who in turn retired in favour of Peter Warren Dease. Dease spent
four years — 1830- 1834 — in New Caledonia, and then handed over
the reins of government to Peter Skene Ogden, famous in the annals
of the West for his humour and combativeness. Ogden ruled for
ten vears — 1834- 1844. He was a brave man and a jovial companion
and many rich anecdotes of his career survive to this day. 

It was during William Connolly's tenure of office that James
Douglas served his apprenticeship in New Caledonia, as clerk in
charge of the fisheries. Here the future Governor of Vancouver
Island and British Columbia courted beautiful Amelia Connolly,
the daughter of the superintendent of the district, and wedded her
according to the law of the country. Upon his return to Fort Van-
couver, Douglas solemnized his marriage in accordance with the
rites of the Church. 

Douglas did not stay long at Fort St. James. On January 30.
1830. he bade farewell to New Caledonia. Apparently his experi-
ences in that turbulent district had dampened his ardor, for George
McDougall, in a letter to John McLeod of March 8, 1828, observes
— "Mr. James Douglas is bent on leaving the Country." He then
paid this tribute to the young trader — "I am sorry for it. Inde-
pendent of his abilities as an Indian Trader he possesses most amiable
qualities and (is) an accorriplished young man." Such independent
testimony would seem to refute in some measure the statements of
certain learned authors — notably H. H. Bancroft — who have sought
to disparage Douglas. 

In a memorandum, dated Hudson's Bay House, 5th January,
1826, and prepared by Sir George Simpson for the Right Honourable
Henry Addington, then Secretary of State for Foreign Afifairs, there
were at that time thirteen establishments west of the Rockv Moun- 

'MacMillan, to Jolin McLeod, Fort Laiiglev, Jan. 21, 1S2S. Ms. in Provincial Arcliiies. 

DUNVEGAN, HUDSOX'S BAY POST, PEACE RHTIR, ALBERTA,
LOOKIXG DOWNT STREAM 

EPISCOPAL CHLTICH IHSSIOX AT LESSEH SLA\ E LAKE. ALBERTA 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 40:3 

tains — Vancouver, (i) Vancouver, (2) Nez Perce, (3) Okanagan,
(4) Colville House, (5) Flat Head, (6) Kootenais, (7) Kilmany
(Kilmaurs), (8) Eraser's Lake, (9) Fort St. James, (lo) McLeod's
Fort, (11) Chilcotin, (12) Thompson's Fort (Kamloops), (13)
Alexandria Fort."" Twenty-three years later the number had
increased to twenty-five, according to James Douglas' report to
Captain Sheppard, R. N., of May, 1849. The additional names are
Forts Boise, Hall, Umpqua, George (confluence of Fraser and
Nechaco Rivers), Nisqually, Cowlitz Farm, Victoria, Simpson,
Langley, Hope, Connolly, Kamloops and George (Astoria). In
the meantime the place called Kootenais by Simpson had been
abandoned. It will be observed that the Governor does not mention
either of the Forts George, whereas Douglas includes both in his list.
Douglas also includes both Kamloops and Thompson, yet it is gen-
erally supposed that these two names refer to one and the same
establishment. 

A volume, or rather a series of volumes, might be written upon
the remarkable activities of the Hudson's Bay Company in the period
in which Dr. McLoughlin was the tutelary genius of the west, with-
out exhausting the subject; but the narrative of that fascinating era
must be held within proper bounds. Interesting and instructive as
it would be to follow the fortunes of each post and to trace the career
of each man identified with the progressive march of events in that
early formatixc period of our history, it is clearly impossible to
do so in the prescribed limits of a single chapter. Still it is neces-
>ary, for the sake of continuity, to give a general account of the
wide-e.xtending operations of the Hudson's Bay Company on the
coasts first brought into prominence through the e.xertions of British
navigators. 

The work of the great corporation in this particular may well be
summed up in the words of Sir (jcorge Simpson, to whose inde-
fatigable exertions and superhuman energv the success of the Adven-
turers of England trading into Hudson's Bay was largely due. Sir
George visited the Oregon Territory and the Northwest coast in
the summer of 1841, upon tiiat memorable jouriiev which led him
across two continents to St. Petersburg ami thence to London. Upon'
his return he laid before the Governor, Deputv Governor and Com- 

-" C^orrespoiulence, Foreign Ofiice aiui Mvuisdii'*' Ba\ Co., p. 5. 

404 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

mittee of the Hudson's Bay Company an illuminating report of his
tour of inspection, which is particularly valuable to the historian
of the west, inasmuch as it contains extended references to the posts
on the western seaboard. Therefore that report, or rather the essen-
tial parts of it, may well be spread upon these pages, because it
reviews the situation in a very able and concise manner. It is as
follows : — 

"25th November, 1841.
"To The Governor, Depy. Govr., & Committee of the Honble. Hud-
son's Bay Company. 

"i. HONBLE. SIRS, — I had this honour under date 20th June
from Red River Settlement whence I took my departure on 3rd July
for the shores of the Pacific prosecuting my journey across the Conti-
nent on horseback, instead of pursuing the usual canoe route, as from
the best information that could be obtained respecting the state of the
Athabasca and Columbia Rivers at the period of the season when I
should reach those streams, there was every reason to believe the
navigation of them then would not only be exceedingly dangerous
but impracticable. 

''2. My route which your Honours can trace on Arrowsmith's
chart lay from Fort Garry in a Westerly direction to Fort Ellice on
the banks of the Assineboine, where I arrived on the 7th July; thence
North West to Carlton, on the banks of the Saskatchewan where we
arrived on the 15th of the same month; thence West to Fort Pitt,
which we reached on the 20th; thence W. N. W. to Edmonton, like-
wise on the Saskatchewan, where we arrived on the 24th. From
thence we took a S. S. Westerly direction by the head waters of the
Red Deers and Bow Rivers crossing the Rocky Mountains by a pass
in about Lat. 50° 30', which had now for the first time been travelled
by Whites. Thence we passed through the Kootenais Country
arriving at Fort Colville on the Columbia River, on the i8th August
having performed a land journey of about 1900 miles in 47 days, out
of which we had travelled but 41, having been detained 6 en route.
The country through which we passed from Red River Settlement,
until we reached the Red Deers River is exceedingly beautiful pre-
senting all the varieties of Prairie and Woodland, Hill and Dale
intersected by rivers and lakes well adapted as far as soil admits for
pastoral and agricultural settlements: — Deer, Buffalo, and Wild 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 405 

Fowl were abundant, and although our way lay through the numer-
ous marauding Plain tribes many of whom we saw, we were allowed
to pass unmolested. Towards the Red Deers River the country
became more hilly from whence across the mountains to the Koote-
nais Country it is extremely rugged and precipitous and in many
places we found it almost impassable even with light horses the whole
route lying through thick forests deep morasses and over stupendous
rocks. 

"The party of Red River settlers proceeding to the Columbia who
followed us, were however more fortunate as they fell in with some
Indians who conducted them through a still more Southerly pass
than we pursued, not only shorter but better in every respect so that
even with families, and encumbered with baggage as they were they
effected the passage of the Mountains with infinitely less labour and
in a shorter time than we accomplished it. 

"From Fort Colville we descended the Columbia River by boat
touching at Okanagan and Walla Walla, and arrived at Fort Van-
couver on the 25th August, six days earlier than by my letter of last
year from England to C. F. McLoughlin I had appointed to be
there. 

"3. It affords me great satisfaction to say that I found the busi-
ness of the different establishments I visited on my way from Red
River East of the Rocky Mountains in as regular and prosperous a
state as I had reason to anticipate; but having reported very fully on
the affairs of the Honble. Company's territories, previous to my
departure from Red River I shall here confine myself to those mat-
ters to which my attention has been directed since I have been on the
Western side of the Continent. 

"4. After crossing the mountains the first permanent establish-
ment I visited was Fort Colville which is intended to protect and col-
lect the trade of the Upper Columbia and of the Kootenais and Flat-
head countries which lie to the South and West of that post. 

"I am concerned to say the returns are gradually diminishing from
year to year; this arises from no want of attention to the management
of the district but from the exhausted state of the country which
has been closely wrought for many years without any intermission.
Tn the present unsettled state of the Boundarv Tvine it would be
impolitic to make anv attempt to preserve or recruit this once valu- 

406 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

able country as it would attract the attention of the American trap-
pers, so that there is little prospect of any amendment taking place
in its afifairs. Here there are many extensive tracts of country, well
adapted for colonization and at Colville there is an excellent farm
yielding bountiful harvests of maize, wheat and other crops. 

"5. Okanagan the next station I visited is an outpost from the
establishment of Thompson's River, maintained more for the pur-
pose of facilitating the transport business of that post and New Cale-
donia than for trade as there are few or no Fur bearing animals in
the surrounding country. 

"6. I was concerned to learn whilst passing Okanagan that the
disaffection of the Indians between that Place and New Caledonia,
which has shown itself more conspicuously since the death of the late
C. F. Black than previously, had not yet subsided and that every
plan which had been formed for apprehending the assassin had
failed. This unfortunate state of affairs it is thought has arisen from
an ill-judged forbearance on our part in not punishing many cases of
misconduct (such as horse thieving, pilfering from encampments
&c) which have been committed by the natives of late years, a for-
bearance thev ascribe to shvness or timidity instead of the proper
cause — a disinclination to have recourse to measures of severity.
Presuming on this laxity of discipline they have day by day become
inore daring until now that it is considered a service of danger even
to pass through the country and can only be attempted in strong
parties. The complement of people in this district has been con-
siderably increased, with a view of restoring good order and with
the hope that more effective measures may be adopted for the appre-
hending of the murderer of Mr. Black, as if he be allowed to remain
.at large unpunished the impression it would leave on the minds of
-the natives might prove dangerous to the peace of the country and
the lives and property of the white population. 

"7. It had been arranged that I should meet C. F. Ogden at
Okanagan but from letters I received from that gentleman it
appeared he had proceeded to New Caledonia a few weeks pre-
viously, with his outfit and people, being unwilling in the present
disturbed state of the country through which they had to pass to
intrust so important a charge to other hands. Mr. Ogden's report
.on the affairs of New Caledonia is bv no means so favourable as 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 397 

hauling. There were heavy Showers of Rain during the night and
thrs morning; and the weather still appears lowering and unsettled. 

"Monday 20th. Most of the wood required for Picketing is now
Cut and hauled to the site of the Establishment, and preparation
for the Storehouse gets on apace. Some of the men are employed in
Burning and rolling into the River the useless Logs that are still
lying through the Camp, which, excepting the Stumps, are the
greatest obstacles to be removed in levelling the ground to be occu-
pied by the Buildings. Six or Seven Sinahomes made their appear-
ance this forenoon. Nine Beaver Skins were traded from them,
tho' it was a matter which was accomplished with infinite trouble,
and after long and earnest expostulation on their part as to Prices.
All this arose from their having had communication with the Ameri-
can Vessel which visited the Straits of De Fuca last Spring, sup-
plying them with Clothing and other articles at a cheaper rate
than what our Tariff admits of. In the afternoon Fifteen to Twenty
Chomes and Misquians arrived from above. They parted with about
200 Dried Salmon and then continued their route down to the Nanai-
mooch Village. The Sinahomes also retired in the evening to visit
some of our neighbours, and soon afterwards a number of Cowit-
chens passed with their families & moveables on their way up to
kill Salmon at the Rapids, where they remain some time collecting
a Stock of Dried Provisions for the Winter. 

"Tuesday 21st. This morning four men commenced opening a
Trench three feet deep for the Pickets. The Ground is a hard
Gravel composed of small round Stones of Granite, mixed with
Sand, with a very thin vegetable mould on the surface." 

The next passage describes the annual migration of the Indians
to the Salmon fisheries, their methods of transport and their war
canoes. 

"Saturday 25th. Families from the Sanch Village at Point
Roberts have been passing in continued succession during the day
all bound for the Salmon Fishery. The Luggage of these as well
as of the other tribes here is transported up and down the River on
Rafts which arc formed by laying Boards across two or more Canoes
Kept, eight, ten or twelve feet asunder. We have also seen amongst
them large War Canoes which are used as Luggage Boats and carry
a great Load of Furniture & Baggage. The Size of some of them 

398 BRITISH COLUiMBIA 

is in lengtli fifty feet and six or seven feet in breadtii across the mid-
dle. On the Top of thf Stern which is fiattish there is in general
carefully carved out the resemblance of the face of a human Being;
and the Bow or Stem stands twice the height of the rest of the Canoe
out of the water, which gives it an imposing appearance. The
Natives here do not make these large Canoes themselves but procure
them from the Yucletaws and other Nations to the northward. They
ornament the sides of them fancifully enough with circles and other
figures laid on with a red Paint or Clay. 

"Friday 31st. The Second Bastion is up, and roofed in, and it
only remains now to finish the flooring, to complete it." 

Theft on the part of the natives now made it imperative to hurry
on the fort inclosure to which this entry refers: — 

"Sunday 2nd. It being a most desirable object to have an inclosure
up as quicklv as possible, all hands with the exception of the Sick
and Maimed are at work. No Indians were allowed to land, on
account of the Theft Committed Yesterday, but the want of fresh
Provisions will soon compel us to concede a little in regard to this
restriction, and indulge them \\ith the same familiarity of inter-
course that they before enjoyed. As it is, they appear already to
feel the deprivation of our good will and friendly disposition towards
them as severely as we had a reason to expect they would, which
is so far satisfactory." 

A forlorn picture is here given of the conditions which sur-
rounded the work in hand; this entry also shows the system of cap-
ture and ransom practiced by one tribe upon another: — 

"Friday 7th. Since Sunday the 2nd Inst, we have had very gloomy
weather and almost incessant Rain. It has however cleared up this
afternoon, and we entertain hopes of a favourable change, which we
certainly much require, for the sake of ad\'ancc with our business,
as well as the health of the People, who have not yet had time to
put up for themselves, any thing like comfortable Lodgings, and
consequently sufifer much from their constant exposure to so wet a
climate. Sickness at present, prevails among them to an alarming
extent, and we can ascribe it only to this, and the late change of
their diet. They are now living entirely upon fish, whereas their
rations before consisted chiefly of grain — say Indian Corn — Pease
&c., &c. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 399 

"A Ylalam \\\)man Sister in Law (jf Scanawa has been restored
by Yucletaws who had taken her prisoner in their last plundering
excursion. Her ransom had cost Scanawa seven or eight Blankets,
besides other trifling articles of trade. The negotiator was a Yucle-
taw Woman who is married to an Indian that lives up this River and
is well known here by the name of the Doctor." 

The reference here registers the completion of the Fort Langley
inclosure, the dimensions of the same and the internal details to be
completed afterwards recording the murder of the "Doctor" who
figured in the last entry: — 

"Saturday 8th. The Picketing of the Fort was completed, and
the Gates hung. The rectangle inside is 40 Yds by 45; and the two
Bastions are 12 ft. square each, built of 8 inch Logs and having a
lower and upper flooring the latter of which is to be occupied by our
artillery. The Tout ensemble must make a formidable enough
appearance in the eves of Indians especially those here who have
seen nothing of the kind before. 

"We have just been informed of the murder of the Yucletaw
woman who made herself so serviceable in ransoming the Ylalam and
Scadgat Captives. — It seems an Indian of this place performed the
meritorious deed, because the poor creature had not been equally
successful in recovering some Women of his own tribe, which arose
probably from the ransom offered not being sufficiently valuable." 

A significant circumstance is noted on the i8th September in the
most matter of course manner, which reads, "The CaJhoro left us
early this morning under a salute of three guns which she returned."
This seems to imply that the fort was now considered sufficiently
complete for safety and that its little garrison were thus formally
left to their own devices. The domestic arrangement seems also to
have been brought practicallv to a conclusion as these concluding
passages show : — 

"Saturdav 22nd (Sept). The carpenters today finished the out-
side shell of the house they have been working at and gave it a good
bark covering. The wintering house gets on apace and promises to
make snug and comfortable quarters. It is thirty feet long by fif-
teen feet broad and is divided into two apartments, each provided
with a fireplace and two windows." And again on Friday the 19th
October, "The houses of the men are nearly completed and some of 

400 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

the hands are again in the woods felling and squaring timber for
various purposes." 

The Langley episode closes, as far as this part of the story is
concerned, with the following gruesome description of the pastimes
of the "noble savage" : — 

"The War Party of Cowitchens returned this afternoon from
their expedition. They have murdered one man and a Woman,
and taken several women and children prisoners who as a matter of
course become slaves. The Head of one of their Victims was pen-
dant at the Bow of one of the Canoes presenting a Spectacle as dis-
mal and disgusting as can well be imagined, a Spectacle the most
shocking to humanity, that this Land of Savage Barbarism produces.
The greater number of the Canoes were laden with dried & fresh
provisions, Baskets, mats and other Furniture, the Spoils of the Camp
of the unhappy creatures that they surprised." 

After this the only features of general interest in this portion of
the Journal are the earthquake shock experienced on November the
23rd "resembling the sound of distant cannon," and the erec-
tion of the fiagstafif which was "cut and prepared and in the after-
noon erected in the south-east corner of the fort. The usual forms
were gone through. Mr. Annance officiated in baptizing the estab-
lishment and the men were regaled in celebration of the event. Our
two hunters came home at night, having been alarmed at the firing
which took place on the occasion." The narrative touches upon the
predicament of Mr. A. Mackenzie who, it appears, was beset by
the Musquiam Indians — the same tribe of natives who forced Simon
Fraser to turn back in 1808. The incident is thus described: "On
Monday, the 24th December, in the morning two Indians from the
Misquiam Camp near the Quoitle River arrived with a note from Mr.
A. McKenzie, the purport of which was, that he was disagreeably
situated with only four men amongst a formidable Band of Indians,
and requested our assistance in case he might not be able to extricate
himself. Messrs. Manson and Annance with nine men went ofif im-
mediately to his relief, but they had not proceeded far before they
met him and his party all uninjured. The Indians have stolen from
them a little property but this will soon be recovered. Mr. Mc. is a
welcome visitor. He is the bearer of our letters, and home news, from
Fort Vancouver." 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 401 

The fact of the next day being Christmas Day is despatched with
the curtest brevity, in two words whereas New Year's Day is heralded
in the subsequent entry with true "hieland honours": 

"January ist. Every one in high glee: Jean Baptiste consider-
ably elevated, and as a matter of course displaying his manhood,"
and yet again on "Wednesday 2nd. (the next day) The men still
enjoying themselves, tho' the effervescence of spirits has greatly sub-
sided." 

The description of the building of Fort Langley may fitly close
with the founder's letter to his friend John McLeod, then stationed
at Kamloops. In January, 1828, James McMillan writes of this
new establishment on the Fraser River: 

"I left Vancouver on the 24th June ( 1 827) , the Cadboro Schooner
some days before. I with the Land Party up the Cowlitz to Puget
Sound; fell in again with the vessel at Entrance of Admiralty Inlet
where we all embarked and proceeded to Eraser's River and suc-
ceeded in reaching this place on the 29th. July, and on the ist of
August began to cut the first stick for Fort Langley. Indians innu-
merable about us of whose friendly disposition we soon had reason to
know — greater scamps never was. However, with a good deal of
care and watching their motions we got on pretty well. On the i8th
Sept'r the vessel left us to prosecute her voyage to Northward. We
had then a good Fort up, with store, and we managed to keep our
numerous neighbours at as respectable a distance as we could. Our
returns are not very flattering, indeed much could not be expected
the first year and we have only half a year this season. Still our
losses will not be much felt. We scraped about 1,100 Skins — Beavers
& Otters. The winter here this year is very severe and would not be
thought too mild even at your own quarter. I don't know if this is
always the case or not. In such cold our naked Indians cannot go
about in search of Skins, were they so inclined; but they are very
lazy and independent, as the sea and river supply their wants plenti-
fully. We make out to live pretty well, fresh salmon in fish season
and can procure plenty of dried for the winter. Sturgeon can be
had also at times and the forest gives (us) an occasional Red deer now
and then. We could trade at the door of our Fort, I suppose, a
million of dried salmon if we choose — enough to feed all the people
of Rupert's Land. I do not know when I will be allowed to quit 

392 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

ust, 1841. "Men employed," Tod's Journal records, "clearing away
the bushes of grass which have been allowed to shoot up time out of
mind till it was quite impossible to discover the Fort at the distance
of more than ten feet. Never in the whole course of my travels in
this Country have I beheld a place that exhibited a more complete
picture of desolation than the present Establishment of Kamloops. —
The buildings have apparently been long in a state of decay, and
notwithstanding the props by which they are supported, are fast tot-
tering to the ground." ^'^ 

The fort stood originally on the Indian Reserve opposite Kam-
loops. Tod rebuilt it on the other side "of the river." '* Later it
was again moved to a point not far from the bridge which spans the
Thompson at the west end of the town. Of the first fort nothing
remains but the buried foundation of the chimney, but an old house
of whip-sawn timber still marks the site of the post near the bridge. 

The earliest mention of the spot which was later to become the site
of Fort Langley occurs in the original manuscript of Mr. John
Work's Journal, one of the prized possessions of the Archives Depart-
ment at Victoria. This reference occurs in the course of his descrip-
tion of the expedition of 1824 under James McMillan, undertaken
by order of Governor Simpson with the object of discovering the
entrance of the Fraser River and essaying its navigation; the party
camped at the confluence of a "little river" with the "Coweechin
River" on Thursday the i6th December 1824. The place is thus
described — "the woods are at some distance and the river (the mod-
ern Salmon River) runs through a fine meadow which is covered
with the remains of a fine crop of hay. The marks of a great many
beaver and numerous tracks of Elk, some quite fresh are to be seen
all the way along the river." It was not until about two and a half
years later that anything appears to have been done to follow up the
exploration of 1824, the Company's officers meanwhile being busy
with the building of Fort Vancouver and the establishment of that
important post on the Columbia river. The merits of the position
and its various advantages had not escaped their ever alert attention
as Mr. Work's second diary, descriptive of the subsequent expedi-
tion of 1827, amply testifies. 

*'Tod, Journal, 1841. Ms. in Provincial Archives Department. 

** For description of Tod's fort see Mayne, B. C. and Vancouver Island, London, 1862. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 393 

It was on the 27th of June, 1827, that this expedition set
out from Fort Vancouver. Mr. McMillan was accompanied by
three clerks — Donald Manson, Frangois Noel Annance and George
Barnston — and twenty-one men, making in all, a party to the number
of twenty-five. They left the fort early in the morning and encamped
the same evening fifteen miles up the Cowlitz River, reaching Puget
Sound without special incident on July the first. After purchasing
canoes from the Indians, a start was made as soon as the tide would
permit and Fort Orchard, the rendezvous where the Cadboro was
to be met, by agreement, was reached on the fourth of July; but the
schooner made no appearance. On the eleventh a crossing was made
to Whidby Island, when the firing of a "great gun" announced the
proximity of the vessel which shortly arrived. The party embarked
on the Cadboro at ten o'clock on the morning of the twelfth and at
once set sail for the Gulf of Georgia, coming to an anchor the follow-
ing night in Point Roberts Bay. Mr. McMillan went ashore here
to look for a site for an establishment, but without success and return-
ing on board, an attempt was made to make the entrance of the
Fraser River which, however, was not affected until the morning of
the eighteenth when, a good channel having been discovered, an
entrance was made and an anchorage found on the edge of the North
Shoal where, meeting with an unexpected depth of water the vessel
dragged anchor and drifted out to sea during the night. Next day
the difficult entrance was again efifected and the ship, after ground-
ing, without damage, anchored a second time, a mile within the
river. The next day — Sunday — the north point of entry was visited
for the purpose of taking a meridian observation. The place was
named by Captain Simpson, "Point Garry" and the latitude recorded
was 49 degrees, 5 min., 30 sec. The remainder of the day was spent
in taking soundings up the river and finding the set of the current.
The day following some progress was made up stream and many
Covvitchen villages were passed the inhabitants of which were
roughly estimated to number some fifteen hundred souls. Two trees
marked HBC were noticed on the south bank, a land mark left by
the previous expedition of 1824. The vessel reached a point opposite
the Quoitle or Pitt River, that evening and anchored later above
Pirn Island. 

The Indians here surrounded the vessel in considerable numbers 

394 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

and proved somewhat aggressive. They were with difficulty
restrained from forcing their way on board, urged thereto by the
chief, an old man who delivered his orders in a very determined
manner. 

The remark is here made: — "On the south side of the river at this
point there is a tolerably good situation for a fort. We still entertain
hopes, however of finding a better." 

Trouble was again met with from the Indians who were found to
have stolefi from the ships stores and "Shoshier," the native inter-
preter sent to recover them, reported badly of the Indians who, he
said, threaten the annihilation of the white men, should they persist
in settling. 

On Monday, the thirtieth, a landing place having been found,
with deep water close to shore, the horses were landed and "appeared
to rejoice heartily in their liberation." 

Here is a passage describing the initial operation in the building
of Fort Langley on Monday the 30th of Julv 1827 : 

"Our men at noon were all verv busilv emploved in clearing the
ground for the establishment. In the evening all came on board to
sleep, a precaution considered necessary until we are better assured
of the friendly disposition of the natives. A few Indians, and Indian
Women, were alongside for a great part of the day, and were very
quiet & peaceable. One of the ship's company was this day put in
irons for making use of language calculated to promote discontent
and create disorders amongst the crew. 

"Thursday 31st. At 5 in the morning the Fort Langley men were
put on Shore to go on with their operations. The work is laborious
from the timber being strong, and the ground completely covered with
thick underwood, interwoven with Brambles & Briars. We pro-
cured a small supply of fresh Sturgeon from the Indians today.
These fish are as large as those of the Columbia, and are killed in
this River with Spears fifty feet in length, having a fork at the end,
Barbed occasionally with iron, but oftener with a piece of shell —
When the fish is struck, the barbs having a cord, attached to their
middle, and held at the end of the Spear, are drawn from their socket
and remain in the fish across the wound, till it is drawn up and
killed." 

The following entries are of very considerable local interest con- 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 395 

stituting as they do — perhaps the earliest record of bush tires — the
ever impending terror of the woods — the same then as now. 

"The fires which had been kindled to consume the Branches, and
cuttings of the timber that had been felled, communicating with the
surrounding woods occasioned us much inconvenience and trouble;
at one time we were completely enveloped in Flame, & Clouds of
Smoke, and it was with great difficulty that the People succeeded in
getting the Conflagration checked. Squatches the Nanaimooch
Chief was taken on Board today and shewn the vessel, with which he
appeared to be highly pleased. 

"Saturday qth. A number of Indian women were alongside the
vessel today with Berries which they dispose of, for trifling Articles
such as Rings, Buttons &c. By a meridian observation of the Sun
taken this day, Fort Langley was found to be in Latitude 40^-1 1'-38".
"VVednesdav 8th. The men who are employed cutting Pickets
were today obliged to abandon their work on account of a fire in the
Woods, which we have every reason to suppose to have been Kindled
by Indians with the malicious intention of forcing us to relinquish
our purpose of establishing. A few Beaver Skins were traded today.
"Thursday 9th. The fire which had raged with so much violence
yesterday, broke out again with redoubled fury on the setting in of
the Sea Breeze. It swept part of the little open meadow on our left,
being arrested in its progress only by the intervention of the small
Ri\ uict tliat runs through the Plain. The Blaze has at last commu-
nicated with the Woods directly behind us but luckily at a consider-
able distance off. We expect much annoyance in consequence should
the wind blow from that (juarter. Work going forward as rapidly
as possible. 

"Saturday iitli. A Number of Indians from above and below
were on the ground today, and many long and pithy orations were
given on the occasion. The Scatchats traded their furs, a business
that was luckily brought to a close without much jarring as to
prices. The fire this forenoon approached very near to our Camp,
and occasioned us a great deal of trouble and anxiety before its prog-
ress was checked, which took many of the people from their other
occupations. In other respects our operations advanced as usual.
The Bastion is now nearly at its height, and appears to command
respect in the eyes of the Indians, who begin shrewdly, to conjecture 

396 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

for what purpose the Ports & loop Holes are intended. In the after-
noon the Company who have visited us retired quietly to their respec-
tive homes, and our Scatchat friends also went off as soon as they
had finished trading. 

"Sunday 12th. Few Indians looked near us today." 

The entries of the day here assume a more satisfied tone with the
abatement of some of the troubles that beset the work. He writes :^ — 

"The fire also, hitherto our most dreaded foe, has sunk to rest,
the dried wood branches & other Combustibles around being at
length consumed. We had in consequence a day of rest — a day of
calm & undisturbed tranquillity throughout. We have only to regret
the scarcity of fish among the natives, which prevents us from pro-
visioning the People as we could wish, or as their present laborious
duty would require. 

"Monday 13th. The Bastion requires now only to be covered &
Pierre Charles & Cornoyer are busy raising Cedar Bark for that pur-
pose. Jacques Pierrault commenced hauling Pickets with one of the
Horses from a distance of a quarter mile. The other men are
employed as during last week. 

"Tuesday 14th. Faniant and others squaring Wood for a Store.
Jacques Pierrault & Kennedy Carters Como Peopeoh sawing Pick-
ets and eight or nine men cutting and carrying logs to the Sawpit.
A small supply of sturgeon was had from the Indians as also a few
dried salmon. The latter fish according to Indian report is becom-
ing plentiful in the River. We have seen few Indians today, and
those few were very quietly disposed." 

The weather conditions are the subject of the next entries and
fitly describe the admirable climate of the locality and the progress
of the work. 

"Since leaving Fort Vancouver up to the present date we have
experienced the finest weather one could wish for. We have had
clear & unclouded Skies and pure atmosphere, and the heats which
prevail at this season in all climes have been agreeably tempered by
the Breezes and Air from Sea. 

"Friday 17th. Some of the men felling timber close to the Camp
preparatory to erecting the Fort Picketing. Others still squaring
Wood for the Buildings, Como & Peopeoh sawing. Jacques Pier-
rault & Kennedy Carters, and the three Horses all in requisition

388 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

ment accorded the natives by the agents of the British corporation
and later by British settlers, stands in marked contrast to that accorded
the aborigine by the American traders and settlers — a fact which
is well-borne out by the frontier history of British North America
and the United States. In spite of his inherent distrust of the native
— a distrust which is amply revealed in his letters and diaries — the
British furtrader treated the Indian fairly and, in so doing, won
the respect of his savage ward who at one time had owned and ruled
the land. 

For a glimpse of the fortbuilder at work and for a knowledge of
his dangers and difficulties one must turn to his letters and diaries.
With the aid of these documents, which are the materials from
which history is woven, the past can be made to live again. Thus
the pages of Roderick Finlayson's autobiography '^ vividly portray
the building of Fort Durham on Taku Inlet, the northernmost post
of the Hudson's Bay Company on the seaboard. In the Spring of
1840, James Douglas proceeded northward in the Beaver to establish
the fort. Upon this expedition Douglas was accompanied by Finlay-
son, who had been appointed to the command of the new district.
This appears from the diary of the latter which has fortunately been
preserved and says: "After remaining about ten days at Sitka settling
various matters relative to our future trade with the Russian Com-
pany, the party left in the Beaver (having been saluted as before
and returned from the Beaver) to the Gulf of Taco (Taku) and
River, for the purpose of establishing a fort there for trading pur-
poses; we ascended the river in boats for about 30 miles looking
for a place to build, but found none on the river and selected a place
about 50 miles in a land locked harbour, where we built a fort on the
usual plan, called it Fort Durham in honour of the Governor Genera)
of Canada. It took some time to build this fort and make it defensi-
ble against the warlike Indians in the vicinity. When it was con-
sidered in proper state for defence, with bastions erected at the angles
of the stockade, a party was left to take possession consisting of
eighteen men and two officers, of whom I was one, second in com-
mand. Mr. Douglas then left for the south in the Beaver, when we
were left to our own resources to make the best of our circumstances.
It was now late in October and the Fort built on Taco (Taku) 

1' Privately printed. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 389 

harbour surrounded with high mountains was as dismal a place as
could possibly be imagined, the rain pouring down in torrents adding
to our other discomforts. The journal kept at this place showed
rain and snow for nine months out of the twelve. We opened trade
with the natives, a wild turbulent race, so that we only allowed a
few of them at a time to enter the Fort gate for trade. A few years
before this an American vessel from Boston came to trade in the
neighbourhood and had a quarrel with the natives in which a large
number of them were killed, and, supposing we were Americans,
they tried to take revenge for this by attempting to take the Fort
and murder us all. With this view a warrior of the tribe attempted
to force his way in at the gate, where a number of others were
watching the gatekeeper, a Sandwich Islander who did all he could
to keep the man out, but failed, when I went to the rescue, having
pistols in my belt, and forced the fellow out. In doing so I was struck
by a bludgeon and in the heat of passion I went outside the gate where
I was laid hold of by a party of wild savages and forced away to a
distance from the gate, when I called out to open blank cartridges
from the cannonades in the bastion to frighten them. In the mean-
time I managed to get my back to a tree, drew my pistols from my
belt and threatened to kill the first man that attempted to lay hold
of me; my face was covered with blood and otherwise badly hurt.
The firing from the bastion frightened the fellows off so I was
enabled to return to the fort. After this we were besieged for several
days. Preparing ourselves for action and the natives finding trade
suspended they came to a parley, when it was arranged that on
payment of the insult to me, — who was not a Boston, as the Americans
were called, — they agreed to pay in furs, a large bundle of which
were brought as payment and accepted. Peace declared and trade
resumed. I then passed a dismal winter at Fort Durham." '^ 

The early letters and papers of the furtraders contain many
references to Kamloops and by means of these broken records it is
possible to portray the vicissitudinous history of that post. Towards
the end of the year 1822 John McLeod, a prominent officer of the
Hudson's Bay Company, was placed in charge of the Thompson
River District. In his report ^^ of the following spring he gives 

'* Finlayson, Biography, pp. 6-8. 

" McLeod, Report on Thompson River District, dateil "Kamloops Spring, 1823." Ms. in Pro-
vincial Archives. 

390 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

some interesting particulars respecting his post and the neighbouring
Indian tribes. "Since my arrival at Thompson's River," he writes,
"the Natives have hitherto conducted themselves very peaceably and
would very likely continue so if it had not been for the death of
one of their principal chiefs who was killed last November by the
Fraser River Indians, which circumstances subsequently created
great commotions amongst the Indians throughout the whole depart-
ment. 

"There are now four different nations in confederacy against the
murderers to revenge this chief's death, for which purpose no less
than 600 fighting men were expected to assemble at Kamloops this
spring. I tried as much as I possibly could to dissuade them from
going to war; but finding all my rhetoric only excited their derision
against myself I was obliged to desist. The murderers sent several
articles of value to the deceased's son, as propitiation for his father's
death, which he rejected and sent back with the message that 'he
was determined not to be satisfied with any ether atonement than
life for life.' I am convinced that this affair will be materially detri-
mental to Thompson River Department at a future period as the
greatest part of our dried salmon is traded at Fraser River. 

"I am happy to have knowledge that we have this spring at the
post of Kamloops alone nearly 900 beaver skins more than the returns
of that place last year. Mr. McMillan's earlv arrival here last fall
or autumn contributed in a great measure to this unusual augmenta-
tion in trade, as it gave the natives an opportunity of making a fall
hunt. The natives appertaining to the Post of Alexandria formerly
traded at Kamloops, but that place is now attached to New Caledonia. 

"The post of Kamloops is situated on the banks of Thompson's
River, at its confluence with the North Branch or N. River; to this
post no less than seven different tribes or nations resort." 

It is evident that the affairs of the Thompson River district were
not in a verv flourishing condition at that time, for the Governor him-
self felt it incumbent upon him to place on record his disappointment
at the returns from Kamloops, which he did in the following terms:
"The returns of Thompson's River I am concerned and surprised
to learn have fallen off while at the same time the expenses are con-
siderably increased within the last year or two; this may have arisen
from circumstances bevond vour control, but which I doubt not you 

JOHN TOD
Famous Oflicer, Hudson's Bay Company, many years at Kamloops 

I 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 391 

will be able to account tor, and I am satisfied is not occasioned by
any want of zeal or exertion on your part; I however sincerely trust
things will assume an improved appearance next Spring; if its afifairs
do not look, better, my opinion as also that of Messrs. McLoughlin,
McMillan and Ogden, is that it should be abandoned as 1700 Beaver
will do little more than cover the Interest on the capital employed,
whereas in manv other parts of the country it can be turned to much
greater advantage. The complement of people intended for the
District this season appears to be greater than necessary and than the
Trade can afiford. We have therefore reduced it from 21 Gentlemen
and Servants to 18 in all which we hope you will find sufficient. Mr.
Annance is particularly required to accompany Mr. McMillan on
a very hazardous expedition to the Mouth of Fraser's River in the
course of the Winter and from the report we have of Jacco La
Fontise, there can be no doubt that he is competent to perform all
duties in whicli Mr. Annance was last season employed. In the
course of this Winter we shall at Fort George determine whether the
Post on Thompson's River is to be continued or not, in the meantime
you will be pleased to make the necessary arrangements for aban-
doning it by removing every valuable article in Spring in case it may
be deemed expedient to adopt the latter measure. It is probable an
Establishment may be formed at the Mouth of Fraser's River if the
reports from that (]uartcr are favourable and I have to request you
will be pleased to make particular enquiry among the natives as to
the navigation, numbers, and disposition of the Tribes on that com-
munication, as also the means of subsistence and general Character
of the Country." '" 

But Kamloops was not abandoned and later became an important
way-station on the old Brigade Trail from Fort Okanagan, on the
Okanagan River, to Fort Alexandria on tlic Fraser. Here the Com-
pany maintained a stud farm for the breeding of horses — for the
great brigades which annuallv passed over the trail with bales of sup-
plies and peltries — the beautiful ranges in the vicinity affording an
abundance of rich pasture. 

It docs not appear, however, that the post on the Thompson
River, in early days, was considered of first importance, John Tod,
a noted character, graphically describes the place as it was in Aug- 

'" SimpTOn, to Jnliii Mcl.end, t)kanaf;aii, \i)v. 1st, 1824. M>. in Provincial .Xrchivcs. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 385 

with reference to further arrangements connected with the Colum-
bia Department Generally. 

"That the same be determined by Governor Simpson in corie-
spondence with Chief Factors McLoughlin and Connolly." 

In 1843 the arrangements for the Columbia district, as set forth
by the Council, were: 

"COLUMBIA ARRANGEMENTS 

"Fort Vancouver — John McLoughlin, C. F. ; Dugald McTavish,
Clk; Forbes Barclay, Surgeon; A. L. Lewes, Clk. ; David McLough-
lin, App. Clk.; Thomas Lowe, App. Clk.; D. Harvey, Miller. 

"Fort George — James Birnie, Clk. 

"Nisqually — Angus McDonald, Clk. 

"Cowelitz — Charles Forrest, P. Mr. 

"Fort Langlcy^James M. Yale, Clk. 

"Fort Simpson — John Work, C. T. ; John Kennedy, Clk. 

"Umpqua — Paul Fraser, Clk. 

"Buena Venture Expedn. — Michel Laframboise, P. M. 

"Snake Expedition — 

"Fort Hall— Richard Grant, C. T.; Angus McDonald, P. M. 

"Fort Boise, Francis Payette, P. M. 

"F^ort Colville— Archd McDonald, C. F. 

"Flat Heads— John McPherson, P. M. 

"Coutonais — Patrick McKenzie, App. P. M. 

"Thompsons River — John Tod, C. T. ; Dun. Cameron, P. M. 

"Okanagan — An Interpreter. 

"Nez Perces— Archd McKinlay, Clk.; William Todd, P. M. 

"Stikine— Charles Todd, Clk.; G. Bleakinsop, P. M. 

"Straits of de Fuca — James Douglas, C. F. ; Charles Ross, C. T. ;
Rod'' Finlayson, Clk. 

"Sandwich Islands — George T. Allen, Clk. ; George Pelly, Agent. 

"Disposable — Wm. Glen Rae, C. T. ; Francis Ermatinger, C. T. ;
Wm. F. Tolmie, Surgeon; H. N. Peers, App. Clk. 

"Beaver Steamer — Wm. Brotchie, Master; J. Carless, Engineer;
Wm. Mitchell, ist Mate. 

"Vancouver — Duncan, Master; James Sangster, ist Mate; Oxley,
and Mate; J. Humphrey, Master; ist Mate; 2nd Mate. 

386 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

"Cadboro — James Scarboro, Master; Alexr. Lattie.
"Cowlitz— Wm. H. McNeil, C. T. ; William Heath, ist Mate;
J. Heald, 2nd Mate. 

"new caledoxia 

"Stuarts Lake— Peter S. Ogdeii, C. F. ; Henry Maxwell, Clk. 

"McLeods Lake— A. C. Anderson, Clk. 

"Erasers Lake — Wm. F. Lane, Clk. 

"Alexandria — Donald Manson, C. T. 

"Flux-cuz — Donald McLean, C. T. 

"Conollys Lake — William McBean, C. T. 

"Fort George — William Porteous, C. T. 

"Babines — Wm. Mcintosh, C. T. 

"That Chief Factor McLoughlin for the Columbia and Chief
Factor Ogden for New Caledonia be instructed to follow up without
deviation the foregoing appointments as far as circumstances may
admit. 

"That H. N. Peers App. Clk. with the Guide and 10 Servants, as
many of them Boutes as possible, to be selected by C. T. Hargreave
be forwarded to the Columbia District and accompany the Saskatche-
wan Brigade under the charge of C. T. Harriott from the Depot to
Edmonton, from thence to proceed under the charge of Mr. Peers
to Vancouver, unless he may receive further instructions from Mr.
McLoughlin en route by which he will regulate his movements. Of
these Servants 2 to be Blacksmiths and 2 Coopers if any such be dis-
posable, if not, those tradesmen coming out by the Ship this season
to be forwarded next season to the Columbia. 

"That the Gentlemen in charge of the Columbia be instructed to
send to York Factory in the Spring of every year with the accounts, an
intelligent Officer conversant with them, qualified to enter into expla-
nations, and to give information on such Points as may not be suf-
ficiently reported in the public correspondence; that Mr. Dugald
McTavish be sent out with the Accounts next year and be relieved in
the Office Department by Mr. Thomas Lowe who will be required to
come out with the accounts in the year 1845. 

"That C. F. Ogden having expressed a desire to obtain leave of
absence or an exchange of Furlough next year it is resolved that the 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 387 

same be afforded him, but this cannot be assured him beyond the
ensuing year. 

"That the New Establishment to be formed on the Straits de Fuca
to be named Fort Victoria be erected on a scale sufficiently extensive
to answer the purposes of the Depot; the square of the Fort to be not
less than 150 yards; the buildings to be substantial and erected as far
apart as the grounds may admit with a view to guarding against fire/' 

As might be expected tlic building of a fc^rt in the wilderness
was often marked with stirring events. The jealousy of the natives
was easily aroused and it was sometimes a difficult matter to prevent
inter-tribal feuds from recoiling upon the meagre garrisons of the
different establishments. It was the policy of the Hudson's Bay
Company to preserve the balance of power and to maintain peace by
the assumption of an overlordship amongst the native tribes. The
chief factors and chief traders in charge of the operations in the
held were astute men, bred, it might almost be said, to the furtradc.
Long years of service in all parts of the country had inured tliem to
hardship and danger and had given them an insight into Indian
traits and customs. No one knew how to frustrate the designs of the
rival trader, or to placate the savage, better than the old-time servant
of the great Company; and no corporation was better served by its
officers than the Adventurers of England. 

According to the canons of that age the Indians were well and
fairly treated. Their lands were not seized, because the furtrader
was concerned only in the gathering of peltries and not in the pro-
moting of settlements; their customs were respected, because it was
less provocative of hostility to humour tlicm than to attempt to change
ideas born of immemorial usage. The authority of the friendly
chief was upheld because it was easier to contri/l the Indian peoples
by such means than to foist upon them laws and customs foreign to
their mode of thought and social institutions. Fhe unfriendlv chief
was placated because it was only by diplomacy that a mere handful
of men could maintain the sovereignty of tlic Company in tiie vast
territories it had made its own without wars of aggrandizement, or
in any other manner than by making the natives dependent upon
its wares. Much has been said against the policy pursued by the
great monopoly, but, taking all things into consideration, the Com-
pany was paternal in its solicitude for its Indian wards. The treat-

BRITISH COLUMBIA 379 

Perces, Fort Boise, Fort Hall, Fort Vancouver, Fort Umpqua, Fort
George, Fort Nisqually, Cowelitz Farm.
"On the British Territory North of 49' : 

''Forts Victoria, Simpson, Langley, Hope, Kamloops, Thompson,
Alexandria, George, Fraser, St. James, Connolly, Kilmaurs, Mc-
Leod, Chilcoten. 

"There are about 600 Europeans, Men and Officers, attached to
these Establishments besides a great number of Indian Labourers
who are employed in the various departments of the Service, West
of the Mountains. 

"The Exports from the Company's Settlements on the West side
of the Mountains may be classed as follows: 

Russian Settlement on the N. W. Coast £10,000 

Sandwich Islands 8,000 

Great Britain 60,000 

£78,000 

"The annual imports vary from £25,000 to £30,000. 

"The above is of course merely a rough estimate given from
Memory, as I have no books at this place to refer to but you will
find much interesting and authentic information on that Subject, and
also a General review of the use, progress and present state of the
Company's general trade, in Murray's History of British America,
forming two Volumes of the 'Family Library.' 

"The Vessels employed in the Company's Trade on the West
side of the Mountains are as follows: 3 Barks, i Steam Vessel, i Brig,
I Schooner, i Sloop. 

"The four latter remain constantly in this Country, while the
three Barks are alternately employed in taking the returns home, and
bringing out our annual supplies for the trade. 

"I have thus briefly replied to most of your enquiries, and shall
be most happy to communicate verbally any further information
which it may be in my power to furnish, if T iiavc the good fortune
to see you at Fort Victoria; in which case I shall also be most happy 

380 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

to take advantage of your obliging permission to forward letters to
England under your charge. 

"I have &c. 

"James Douglas
"Chief Factor H. B. Compy.
"Capt. J. Sheppard" 

One other letter of that period, bearing upon the policy and ad-
ministration of the Hudson's Bay Company, should have a place
beside that of James Douglas, e]uoted in the preceding paragraphs.
Reference is made to Captain Courtenay's entertaining but important
communication, dated on board H. M. S. Constance "at sea," Sep-
tember 12, 1848, and addressed to Mr. ^^^ Miller, British Consul at
the Sandwich Islands. It reads: 

"I had a long passage, 26 days, from Honolulu to Port Esquimalt,
but I luckily had a fine day & fair wind to enter the strait of Juan
de Fucca, & found my port without difficulty. The Hudson's Bay
Company's Settlement of Fort Victoria is only three miles from
Esquimalt, so that we got our daily supplies of Beef without much
trouble. The Company have 300 acres under tillage there, and a
dairy farm of 80 Cows, together with numerous other cattle & 24
brood Mares, the whole under the superintendence of a Civil but
hard Scot, named Finlaison who has about 30 people of all descrip-
tions under him. They are likewise building a Saw^ Mill at the head
of Port Esquimalt which will be ready for work at the end of the
year. 

"Altogether the Company's affairs appear to be exceedingly well
and particularly economically managed; and my opinion is that the
sooner they give up their Settlement in Oregon & retire within our
frontier, the sooner an end will be put to their bickerings with the
Americans, but I fear that the large amount of gain annually flowing
into their coffers, from being the Chief Merchants and Purveyors
there, will cause them to remain as long as they can, & to cry Wolf,
until, like the Shepherd's Boy in the Fable, they are not listened to. 

"From the nature of Mr. Douglas' letters to you, one would hafe
imagined their lives and Properties were in danger, no such thing the
Americans never molested them in the slightest degree, with the 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 381 

exception of the Powder affair at Walla Walla which they tirst asked
to buy, & in the end gave receipts for, so that they have clearly the
Law of Nations on their side, if Vattcl is any authority. The story
of the redoubtable General Gillian (who was killed by accident)
having threatened to hang Mr. McBean is so perfectly idle, that
when 1 mentioned the circumstance no one knew anything about it,
so that if any such threat ufrc vuuie it must have been merely an idle
blustering of some Yankee Back-woods man. 

"The exaggeration of friend Douglas must have been, in my opin-
ion, the reason why he avoided meeting me, for instead of coming to
Fort V^ictoria as he originally intended he returned to Columbia
River! ! ! notwithstanding Lieut. Wood offered him a Passage in
the Pandora by which evasion I have been unable to procure infor-
mation on any one point from the H. B. C°. for so greatly do they fear
each other that Mr. Finlaison referred me to Mr. Ogden at Fort
Vancouver, & that worthy referred me again to Chief Factor Doug-
las, wlio made himself so scarce that although I remained to the latest
day my orders admitted in the Strait of Juan de Fucca, I never was
enlightened either by his presence or by the sight of his handwriting.
I really think that one of the causes of the strong desire the H. B. C".
have for the presence of a Ship of War is the help it throws into the
General Stock, for example tlic Constanrc paid tliciii £400 for what
cost them absolutely nothing namely, Cattle that feed on the Prairies
& flour that is manufactured at no cost whatever. 

"They nominally pay their Farm Servants £17 a year, but as they
are the only Purveyors the said servants are in every case compelled
to come to their Stores for all their wants which are furnished them
at a charge of 1 z,o per cent ox'cr cost price. 

"The Company have a regular 'i'ariff, from which tliey never
depart in their traffic for P'urs, from bear Skins for a blanket, not so
large as a Purser's blanket charged 6s to the Sailors is a specimen. 

"The Indians inhabiting Vancouvers Island & the neighbourhood
are a very dirty, wretched set of People, witliout fixed habitations,
but many of them have handsome features, particularly the women.
I was agreeably surprised to find that they are not so thievish as repre-
sented, scarcely a single instance of dishonesty occurred during our
intercourse, but thev will not do vou a hand's turn, or give you a
drink of water without payment. 

382 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

"There appears to be a great deal of excellent Land in Vancouver
Island, & the Coast abounds with good harbours. As it is too far
distant ever to be colonized by emigration, it would be the Place of
all others for a Military Colony. The winters are mild; never so
severe as to interrupt agricultural pursuits, & they have never failed
to gather in their crops at Fort Victoria in the month of August while
the extensive Praieries afiford pasture for innumerable herds of
Cattle. 

"The Country abounds with Elk, Deer & other game besides all
the Fur animals. 

"San Francisco, Sept. 17. I got here yesterday & sail tomor-
row for San Bias. The Gold Fever goes on & its extent is
not exaggerated." 

In the light of the full and able report of James Douglas, the
gallant Captain's strictures upon that official are, to say the least,
out of place. James Douglas was not the man to shirk his duty and
it may be taken for granted that he did not avoid Captain Courtenay,
as that officer avers. No doubt important matters kept him from
proceeding to Victoria at the time H. M. S. Constance was lying in
Esquimau harbour. It is well known that James Douglas, in com-
mon with the other high officials of the Company were ever ready
and willing to answer as fully as possible all legitimate enquiries. 

Although Doctor McLoughlin was directly responsible for the
administration of the Western Department, and although he admin-
istered Old Oregon and its tributary territories, he was yet subject to
the will of Governor Simpson and the Council which met annually
at Norway House. This parliament of the furtraders set forth each
year in a series of resolutions the arrangements to be carried into
effect by the officers in command of the different districts. At the
same time it settled the stations of the furtraders and clerks in the
different departments and promoted or rebuked them as occasion
demanded. The Minutes of Council embody specific instructions
and particulars touching the outfits and equipment of each district
in the Indian Territories and Rupert's Land. For instance, the Min-
utes of Council of 1830 thus set forth the arrangements for the Colum-
bia Department: 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 383 

"WIXTER ARRAXGEMEXTS— COLUMBIA 

"Fort Vancouver — J. McLoughlin, C. F. ; J. D. Harriott, C. T. ;
Donald Manson, Clk. ; James Douglas, Clk. ; James Birnie, Clk. ;
John Kennedy, Surgeon; Michel Laframboise, P. M. 

"Fort Colville — Francis Heron, C. T. 

"Flat Heads — William Kittson, Clk. 

"Coutainais — Payette, Intr. 

^'Thompson's River — Fr^ Heron, C. T. 

"Okanagan — A Labourer. 

"Fort Nez Perces — Samuel Black, C. T. 

"Fort Langley— A. McDonald, C. T. ; J. M. Yale, Clerk. 

"Snake Expedition— P. S. Ogden, C. T. 

"Disposable — Simon McGillivray, C. T. ; A. R. McLeod, C. T. ;
John Work, Clerk; Thomas McKay, Clerk; Geo. Barnston, Clerk;
F. N. Annartce, Clerk. 

"Shipping — Captains Simpson, Ryan & Minors & Mate. 

"That it be discretionary with Chief Factor McLoughlin to make
the appointments of those Gentlemen as he may consider expedient. 

"That 40 men be provided for this District to accompany the
Saskatchewan Brigade under the charge of Chief Factor Rowand
until they reach Edmonton and from thence proceed under the charge
of Chief Trader Harriott to Fort Vancouver or until he may receive
instructions from Chief Factor McLoughlin for his further guidance. 

"That 160 guns (trading) and a few other supplies as per requi-
sition be taken from York for the use of the Columbia department
and from Jasper's House all the leather which he may find there of
the stock provided last year for New Caledonia. 

"That Chief Factor McLoughlin take the necessary steps to em-
ploy the Shipping in the Coasting and Timber Trades to build a Ship
at Vancouver to establish the post of Nass and to carry into effect
the other objects noticed in the Governor & Committee's Dispatch
of 28th Oct^ 1829 conformablv to their Honours instructions. 

"COLUMBIA CONTINUED— NEW CALEDONIA 

"Stuarts Lake— Wm. Connolly, C. F. ; J. McDonald, Clk.
"Frazers Lake — P. W. Dease, C. F. ; Thomas Dears, Clk.
"McLeods Lake— John Tod, Clk. 

384 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

"Alexandria — A. Fisher, C. T. 

"Babines — ^P. C. Pambrun, Clk. 

"Conollys Lake — Charles Ross, Clk. 

"Fort George — Wm. McGillivray, Clk. 

"That it be discretionary with Chief Factor Connolly to make
the appointments of the above Gentlemen together with the requisite
establishment of Servants as he may consider expedient. 

"That Chief Factor Dease proceed to New Caledonia via Atha-
basca and Peace River in a Canoe manned by 4 men for the Colum-
bia; in which Chief Factor Charles will take a passage from Norway
House to Fort Chippewyan preceding his Brigade; from Fort Chip-
pewyan Chief Trader McGillivray to accompany Mr. Dease, or in
the event of that Gentleman not arriving there by the 20th Septem-
ber, C. T. Campbell to accompany him and either of those Gentle-
men, say Mr. McGillivray or Mr. Campbell, to proceed from New
Caledonia to Kamloops and thence to Vancouver as early as possible
with the men intended for the Columbia Department. 

"That Chief Factor Connolly be authorized to transfer the charge
of the District of New Caledonia next spring to Chief Factor Dease,
who will make the necessarv appointments of Officers and Servants
for the Summer to the different Posts and Stations as he may see fit
and that Chief Factor Connolly attend the sitting of Council next
season taking his passage out via Peace River in a Canoe manned by
not exceeding 4 retiring Servants, the remainder of the crew to be
provided by Chief Factor Charles at Fort Chippewyan and that John
McDonald, Clerk, hue of new Caledonia District, who is to pass
the ensuing Winter at Peace River come out from Fort Chippewyan
in charge of the Athabasca Brigade to Norway House. 

"That 650 dressed Moose skins, 100 lb. Babiche Snares and Beaver
nets, 2000 Fathoms Pack Cords and a sufficient quantity of Grease to
make up 50 pieces in all be provided at Dunvegan for the use of New
Caledonia District to be sent for in the Autumn of every year by the
Gentleman in charge of that District. 

"That a complete Outfit for New Caledonia 183 1 conformably
to requisition be prepared at Fort V^ancouver by next Spring and that
the requisite Horses and appointments, etc., to efYect the transport
thereof he provided and forwarded thither from the Columbia and