106 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

Of the men who sailed with Cook upon his second and third voy-
ages, several afterwards became more or less closely identified with
the affairs of the northwest coast. Vancouver, Roberts, Colnett and
Hergest, were midshipmen; Portlock a master's mate, and Dixon an
armorer. John Ledyard, of whom more later, also sailed with Cook. 

Perhaps it may not be out of place to insert at the end of this
chapter the last letter written by Captain Cook to the Admiralty.
The letter bears the inscription: "Resolution at the Island of Una-
laschka on the Coast of America in the Latitude of 53' 55' North,
Longitude 192 30' East from Greenwich, the 20th of October 

1778." 

It reads: 

"Sir, Having accidentally met with some Russians who have
promised to put this in a way of being sent to Petersburg, and I
neither have nor intent to visit Kamtschatka as yet, I take this op-
portunity to give their Lordships a short account of my proceedings
from leaving the Cape of Good Hope to this time. 

"After leaving the Cape, I, pursuant to their Lordships Instruc-
tions, visited the Islands lately seen by the French, situated between
the Latitude of 48° 41' and 50" South and in the Longitude of 69^2
Et. These Islands abound with good Harbours and fresh water,
but produceth neither Tree nor Shrub and but very little of any
other kind of vegetation. After spending five days on the Coast
thereof, I quitted it on the 30th of December, just touched at Van
Diemen's Land, arrived at Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zea-
land the 13th February 1777. Left it again on the 2c;th and pushed
for Otaheite, but as we had not been long at sea before we met with
an Easterly wind which continued so long that the season was too
far spent to proceed to the North that year, and at length the want
of water and food for the Cattle I had on board obliged me to bear
away for the Friendly Islands, so that it was August before I ar-
rived at Otaheite. I found that the Spaniards from Callao had been
twice at this Island from the time of mv leaving it in 1774. The
first time they came they left behind them designedly, four Span-
iards who remained upon the Island about two months, but were all
gone some time before mv arrival. Thcv had also brought to and
left on the Island, Goats, Hogs, and Dogs, one Bull, and a Ram, but
never a female of either of these species, so that those I carried and
put on shore there were highly acceptable. They consisted of a Bull 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 107 

and three Cows, a Ram and five ewes, besides Poultry of four sorts,
and a Horse and a Mare with Omai's. At the Friendly Isles I left
a Bull and a Cow, a Horse and Mare, and some sheep. In which
I flatter myself that the laudable intentions of the King and their
Lordships have been answered. 

"I left Omai at Huaheine, quitted the Society Isles the 9th of
December, proceeded to the North and in the Latitude of 22° N.,
Longitude 200 East, fell in with a Groupe of Islands inhabited by
the same Nation as Otaheite and abounding with Hogs and Roots.
After a short stay at these Islands, continued our Route for the Coast
of America, which we made on the 7th of last March, and on the
29th, after enduring several storms, got into a Port in the Latitude
of 49' J North. At this place, besides taking in Wood and Water,
t\\t Resolution was supplied with a new Mizen-Mast, Fore-Topmast,
and her Fore-Mast got out and repaired. 

■'I put to Sea again the 26th April, and was no sooner out of
Port, than we were attacked by a violent Storm which was the oc-
casion of so much of the Coast being passe'd unseen. In this Gale
the Resolution sprang a Leak which obliged me to put into a Port
in the Latitude of 61 , Longitude 213° East. In a few days I was
again at Sea, and soon found we were on a Coast where every step
was to be considered, where no information could be had from Maps
either Modern or Ancient; confiding too much in the former we
were frequently misled to our no small hindrance. 

■'On an extensive Coast altogether unknown, it may be thought
needless to say that we met with many obstructions before we got
through the Narrow Strait that divides Asia from America, where
the Coast of the latter takes a N. E. direction. I followed it flattered
with the hopes of having at last overcome all difficulties, when on
the 17th of August in the Latitude 70 45', Longitude 198° East, we
were stopped by an impenetrable body of Ice and Iiad so far ad-
vanced bctw^een it and the land before we discovered it that little
was wanting to force us on shore. 

"Finding I could no longer proceed along the Coast I tryed
what could be done further out, but the same obstacle everywhere
presented itself, quite over to the Coast of Asia which we made on
the 29th of the same month in tiic Latitude of 68 5:;', Longitude
180'. >^ East. As frost and snow, the forerunners of Winter began 

108 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

to set in, it was thought too late in the Season to make a further At-
tempt for a Passage this Year in any direction, I therefore steered
to the S. E. along the Coast of Asia, passed the Strait above men-
tioned and then stood over for the American Coast to clear up some
doubts and to search, but in vain, for a Harbour to compleat our
wood and water. Wood is a very scarce article in all these North-
ern parts; except in one place there is none upon the Sea Coast but
what is thrown ashore by the Sea, some of which we got on board
and then proceeded to this place where we had been before to take
in Water. From here 1 intend to proceed to the Sandwich Islands,
that is those discovered in 22° North Latitude, after refreshing there,
return to the North by the way of Kamtschatka, and the ensuing
summer make another and final attempt to find a Northern Pas-
sage, but I must confess I have little hopes of succeeding; Ice, though
an obstacle not easily surmounted is perhaps not the only one in the
way. The Coasts of the two Continents is fiat for some distance otif
and even in the middle between the two the depth of Water is in-
considerable; this, and some other circumstances all tending to prove,
that there is more land in the Frozen Sea than as yet we know of,
where the Ice has its source and that the polar part is far from being
an open Sea. 

"There is another discouraging circumstance attending the Navi-
gating these Northern parts, and that is the want of Harbours where
a ship can occasionally retire to secure herself from the Ice or re-
pair any damage she may have sustained. For a more particular
description of the American Coast, I beg leave to refer to the enclosed
Chart which is hastily copied from an original of the same scale. 

"The reason of my not going to the Harbour of St. Peter and St.
Paul in Kamtschatka to spend the winter is the great dislike I have
to lay inactive for six or eight months while so large a part of the
Southern Pacific Ocean remains unexplored and the State and Con-
dition of the Ships will allow me to be moving. Sickness has been
little felt in the ships and Scurvy not at all. I have however had the
misfortune to lose Mr. Anderson, my Surgeon, who died of a linger-
ing consumption two months ago, and one man some time before of
the Dropsy, and Captain Clerke had one drowned by accident, which
are all we have lost since we left the Cape of Good Hope. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 109 

"Stores and Provisions we have enough for twelve months, and
longer, without a supply of both it will hardly be possible for us to
remain in these Seas, but whatever time we do remain shall be spent
in the improvement of Geography and Navigation by
"Sir, your most obedient
and most humble Servant
"James Cook." 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 103 

stabbed in the back and fell with his face into the water. On seeing
him fall, the islanders set up a great shout, and his body was imme-
diately dragged on shore and surrounded by the enemy, who, snatch-
ing the dagger out of each other's hands, showed a savage eagerness
to have a share in his destruction. 

''Thus fell our great and excellent Commander! After a life of
so much distinguished and successful enterprise, his death, as far as
regards himself, cannot be reckoned premature; since he lived to
finish the great work for which he seems to have been designed; and
was rather removed from the enjoyment than cut off from the acqui-
sition, of glory. How sincerely his loss was felt and lamented, by
those who had so long found their general security in his skill and
conduct, and every consolation, under their hardships, in his tender-
ness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible for me to
describe; much less shall I attempt to paint the horror with which
we were struck, and the universal dejection and dismay, which fol-
lowed so dreadful and unexpected a calamity." ' 

Lieutenant King concludes his eulogy with a brief summary of
Captain Cook's achievements in the cause of science, observing: 

"Perhaps no science ever received greater additions from the
labours of a single man, than geography has done from those of
Captain Cook. In his first voyage to the South Seas, he discovered
the Society Islands; determined the insularity of New Zealand;
discovered the straits which separate the two islands, and are called
after his name; and made a complete survey of both. He afterward
explored the Eastern coast of New Holland, hitherto unknown; an
extent of twenty-seven degrees of latitude, or upward of two thousand
miles. 

"In his second expedition, he resolved the great problem of a
Southern continent; having traversed that hemisphere between the
latitudes of 40° and 70 ', in such a manner, as not to leave a possibility
of its existence, unless near the pole, and out of tlie reach of naviga-
tion. During this voyage, he discovered New Caledonia, the largest
island in the Southern Pacific, except New Zealand; the island of
Georgia; and an unknown coast, which he named Sandwich Land,
the thulc of the Southern hemisphere; and having twice visited the
tropical seas, he settled the situations of the old, and made several new
discoveries. 

104 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

"But the voyage we are now relating, is distinguished, above all the
rest, by the extent and importance of its discoveries. Besides several
smaller islands in the Southern Pacific, he discovered, to the North of
the equinoctial line, the group called the Sandwich Islands; which,
from their situation and productions, bid fairer for becoming an
object of consequence, in the system of European navigation, than any
other discovery in the South Sea. He afterward explored what had
hitherto remained unknown of the western coast of America, from
the latitude of 43° to 70° North, containing an extent of three thou-
sand, five hundred miles; ascertained the proximity of the two great
continents of Asia and America; passed the straits between them, and
surveyed the coast, on each side, to such a height of Northern latitude
as to demonstrate the impracticability of a passage, in that hemis-
phere, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, either by an eastern
or a western course. In short, if we except the sea of Amur, and the
Japanese Archipelago, which still remain imperfectly known to
Europeans, he has completed the hydrography of the habitable
globe." 

The .lamentable death of Captain Cook has been described by
Lieutenant King. In his narrative of the expedition after that calam-
ity, King goes on to state that after much parleying and difficulty with
the natives, some of the bones of his commander were recovered,
wrapped up in a cloth. Other parts were brought to the Resolution,
done up in a quantity of fine white cloth, covered with white feathers.
The body had been dismembered by the natives, and the flesh from
each part cut ofif and burned. As trophies of their barbarous act,
the principal chiefs each had received one of the bones, and to re-
cover them. Captain Clerke was compelled to make a display of
force. In fact, several of the natives were killed and many of their
houses burned to the ground before he gained his end. All that re-
mained of Cook, the intrepid and famous navigator, was placed in a
casket and committed to the deep, with military honours. 

On the evening of February 22, 1779, the expedition, under com-
mand of Captain Clerke, left the harbour of "Kowrowa," where Cook
was killed, and after having reached the latitude of 69° 34' north,
where solid fields of ice were encountered, Clerke "took a last farewell
of a northeast passage to Old England." Then the expedition was
headed south, and finally, on the 4th day of October, 1780, the ships
arrived at the Nore after an absence from England of four years, two 

BIRTHPLACE OP CAPTAIN JAMES COOK
Maitoii, near Middlesborough, Yorkshire, England 

THE DEATH OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK
From an engraving in the Royal United Service Museum 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 105 

months and twenty days. The main object, it is scarcely necessary
to relate, had not been accomplished; but the heroic navigators and
explorers took every advantage of their opportunities, and, through
their invaluable services, added greatly to the renown, prestige and
possessions of Great Britain. The commanders of the Resolution
and Discovery, however, never returned. The life of Cook was sud-
denly cut short at the Sandwich Islands, and that of his successor.
Captain Clerke, who had commanded the Discovery, was ended by
that dread disease, consumption, on the 22d of August, 1779, while
in the latitude of 53° 7' north. 

The great navigator was of humble origin. He was born at Mar-
ton in the North Riding of York, the 27th of October, 1728. At the
age of eighteen he joined the merchant service, but later entered the
Royal Navy as a volunteer in the capacity of an able seaman. His
diligence, sobriety and strict attention to his duties soon brought him
to the notice of his commanding officers, and by degrees he was pro-
moted through different ranks until 1757 he secured a master's war-
rant. While in the linc-of-battle H. M. S. Pembrc-ke on the North
American station, he carefully surveyed the St. Lawrence before
the famous battle of the Plains of Abraham. Later he surveyed parts
of the coasts of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland to the satisfaction
of his Captain and the Governor of that Colony, both of whom con-
ceived a high opinion of his abilities. A year or two later, in 1768,
Cook was given command of the expedition to the Pacific to ob-
serve the transit of Venus. At the same time he received his Lieu-
tenant's commission. The voyage was successful, and upon his re-
turn to England in 1771 he was gazetted a commander. In the fol-
lowing year he sailed from England in the Resolution, accompa-
nied by the Adventure, upon his great Australasian enterprise. This
voyage attracted such favourable attention that he was promoted to
post captain, the King himself placing the commission in the ex-
plorer's hands. Then followed the voyage, of which a brief descrip-
tion has been given. Perhaps not the least of the benefits he con-
ferred upon humanity was his discovery of a method to preserve
health at sea. Before his voyages, that terrible bane of seamen, the
scurvy, demanded its toll of lives from each vessel that embarked
upon a protracted voyage. Cook, by the exercise of a humane fore-
sight, robbed the disease of its terrors. " 

"See Dictionary of Natural Biography; Walbran, British Columliia Coast Names. 

100 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

means. Accordingly, the boats of both ships, well manned and
armed, were stationed across the bay; and, before I left the ship,
some great guns had been fired at two large canoes, that were attempt-
ing to make their escape. 

"It was between 7 and 8 o'clock when we quitted the ship together ;
Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr. Phillips, and nine marines
with him; and myself in the small boat. The last orders I received
from him were, to quiet the minds of the natives, on our side of the
bay, by assuring them, they would not be hurt; to keep my people
together, and to be on my guard. We then parted ; the Captain went
toward Kowrowa, where the King resided; and I proceeded to the
beach. My first care, on going ashore, was to give strict orders to
the marines to remain within the tent, to load their pieces with ball,
and not to quit their arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of
old Kaoo, and the priests, and explained to them, as well as I could,
the object of the hostile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed
them. I found, that they had already heard of the cutter's being
stolen, and I assured them, that though Captain Cook was resolved
to recover it, and to punish the authors of the theft, yet that they, and
the people of the village on our side, need not be under the smallest
apprehension of suffering any evil from us. I desired the priests
to explain this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but
to continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo asked me, with great earnest-
ness, if Terreeoboo was to be hurt? I assured him he was not; and
both he and the rest of his brethren seemed much satisfied with this
assurance. 

"In the meantime. Captain Cook, having called ofif the launch,
which was stationed at the north point of the bay, and taken it along
with him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed with the Lieutenant
and pine marines. He immediately marched into the village, where
he was received with the usual marks of respect; the people pros-
trating themselves before him, and bringing their accustomed offer-
ings of small hogs. Finding that there was no suspicion of his design,
his next step was to inquire for Terreeoboo, and the two boys, his
sons, who had been his constant guests on board the Resolution. In
a short time, the boys returned along with the natives, who had been
sent in search of them, and immediately led Captain Cook to the
house where the King had slept. They found the old man just awoke
from sleep; and, after a short conversation about the loss of the cutter, 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 101 

from which Captain Cook was convinced that he was in no wise privy
to it, he invited him to return in the boat, and spend the day on board
the Resolution. To this proposal the King readily consented, and
immediately got up to accompany him. 

"Things were in this prosperous train, the two boys being already
in the pinnace, and the rest of the party having advanced near the
water-side, when an elderly woman, called Kanee-kabareea, the
mother of the boys, and one of the King's favourite wives, came after
him, and with many tears, and entreaties, besought him not to go on
board. At the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid
hold of him, and insisting that he should go no farther, forced him
to sit down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigious num-
bers along the shore, and had probably been alarmed by the firing
of the great guns, and the appearances of hostility in the bay, began
to throng round Captain Cook and their King. In this situation,
the Lieutenant of marines, observing that his men were huddled
close together in the crowd, and thus incapable of using their arms,
if any occasion should require it, proposed to the Captain, to draw
them up along the rocks, close to the water's edge; and the crowd
readily making way for them to pass, they were drawn up in a line
at the distance of about thirty yards from the place where the King
was sitting. 

"All this time, the old King remained on the ground, with the
strongest marks of terror and dejection in his countenance; Captain
Cook, not willing to abandon the object for which he had come on
shore, continuing to urge him, in the most pressing manner, to pro-
ceed ; whilst, on the other hand, whenever the King appeared inclined
to follow him, the chiefs, who stood round him, interposed, at first
with prayers and entreaties, but afterward, having recourse to force
and violence, insisted on his staying where he was. Captain Cook
therefore finding that the alarm had spread too generally, and that
it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off, without blood-
shed, at last gave up the point; observing to Mr. Phillips, that it
would be impossible to compel him to go on board without the risk
of killing a gieat number of the inhabitants. 

"Though the enterprise, which had carried Captain Cook on
shore had now failed, and was abandoned, yet his person did not
appear to have been in the least danger, till an accident happened,
which gave a fatal turn to the afTair. The boats, which had been 

102 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

stationed across the bay, having fired at some canoes, that were at-
tempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a Chief of the first
rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where Captain
Cook was, just as he had left the King, and was walking slowly
toward the shore. The ferment it occasioned was very conspicuous;
the women and children were immediately sent off; and the men put
on their war-mats and armed themselves with spears and stones.
One of the natives, having in his hands a stone, and a long iron spike
(which they call a pabooa) came up to the Captain, flourishing his
weapon, by way of defiance, and threatening to throw the stone. The
Captain desired him to desist; but the man, persisting in his inso-
lence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of small shot. The
man having his mat on, which the shot were not able to penetrate,
this had no other effect than to irritate and encourage them. Sev-
eral stones were thrown at the marines; and one of the Erees at-
tempted to stab Mr. Phillips with his pabooa; but failed in the
attempt, and received from him a blow with the butt end of his
musket. Captain Cook now fired his second barrel, loaded with ball,
and killed one of the foremost of the natives. A general attack
with stones immediately followed, which was answered by a dis-
charge of musketry from the marines and the people in the boats.
The islanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, stood the fire
with great firmness; and before the marines had time to reload, they
broke in upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed
was a scene of the utmost horror and confusion. 

"P'our of the marines were cut off amongst the rocks in their
retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy; three more were
dangerously wounded; and the Lieutenant, who had received a stab
between the shoulders with a pnhooa. having fortunately reserved
his fire, shot the man who had wounded him just as he was going to
repeat his blow. Our unfortunate Commander, the last time he was
seen distinctly, was standing at the water's edge, and calling out to the
boats to cease firing, and to pull in. If it be true, as some of those
w!io were present have imagined, that the marines and boat-men
had fired without his orders, and that he was desirous of preventing
any further bloodshed, it is not improbable that his humanity, on
this occasion, proved fatal to him. For it was remarked, that whilst
he faced the natives, none of them had offered him any violence, but
that having turned about to give his orders to the boats, he was 

96 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

had taken place in their department during the late gales. They
were lodged in a house adjoining the Morai, that was lent us by the
priests. Such were our arrangements on shore. I shall now proceed
to the account of those other transactions with the natives, which
led, by degrees, to the fatal catastrophe of the 14th. 

"Upon coming to anchor, we were surprized to find our recep-
tion very different from what it had been on our first arrival; no
shouts, no bustle, no confusion; but a solitary bay, with only here
and there a canoe stealing close along shore. The impulse of curi-
osity, which had before operated to so great a degree, might now
indeed be supposed to have ceased; but the hospitable treatment we
had invariably met with, and the friendly footing on which we parted,
gave us some reason to expect, that they would again have flocked
about us with great joy, on our return. 

"We were forming various conjectures upon the occasion of this
extraordinary appearance, when our anxiety was at length relieved
by the return of a boat, which had been sent on shore, and brought
us word that Terreeoboo was absent, and had left the bay under the
taboo. Though this account appeared very satisfactory to most of us;
yet others were of the opinion, or rather, perhaps, have been led,
by subsequent events, to imagine, that there was something, at this
time, very suspicious in the behaviour of the natives; and that the
interdiction of all intercourse with us, on pretence of the King's
absence, was only to give him time to consult with his Chiefs, in what
manner it might be proper to treat us. Whether these suspicions
were well founded, or the account given by the natives was the truth,
we were never able to ascertain. For though it is not improbable,
that our sudden return, for which they could see no apparent cause,
and the necessity of which wc afterward found it very difficult to
make them comprehend, might occasion some alarm; yet the un-
suspicious conduct of Terreeoboo, who, on his supposed arrival, the
next morning, came immediately to visit Captain Cook, and the con-
sequent return of the natives to their former friendly intercourse
with us, are strong proofs that they neither meant, nor apprehended,
any change of conduct. 

"In support of this opinion, I may add the account of another
accident, precisely of the same kind, which happened to us on our
first visit, the day before the arrival of the King. A native had
sold a hog on board the Resolution, and taken the price agreed on. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 97 

when Pareea, passing by, advised the man not to part with the hog,
without an advanced price. For this, he was sharply spoken to, and
pushed away; and the taboo being soon after laid on the bay, we
had at first no doubt but that it was in consequence of the ofifence
given to the Chief. Both these accidents serve to show, how very
difficult it is to draw any certain conclusion from the actions of
people, with whose customs, as well as language, we are so imper-
fectly acquainted; at the same time, some idea may be formed from
them of the difliculties, at the first view, perhaps, not very apparent,
which those have to encounter who, in all their transactions with these
strangers, have to steer their course amidst so much uncertainty,
where a trifling error may be attended with even the most fatal con-
sequences. However true or false our conjectures may be, things
went on in their usual quiet course till the afternoon of the 13th. 

"Toward evening of that day, the officer who commanded the
watering-party of the Discovery, came to inform me that several
Chiefs had assembled at the well near the beach, driving away the
natives, whom he had hired to assist the sailors in rolling down the
casks to the shore. He told me, at the same time, that he thought
their behaviour extremely suspicious, and that they meant to give
him some farther disturbance. At his request, therefore, I sent a
marine along with him, but sufl'ered him to take only his side arms.
In a short time the officer returned, and on his acquainting me that
the islanders had armed themselves with stones, and were grown
very tumultuous, I went myself to the spot, attended by a marine,
with his musket. Seeing us approach, they threw away their stones,
and, on my speaking to some of the Chiefs, the mob were driven away,
and those who chose it, were sufifered to assist in filling the casks.
Having left things quiet Iicrc, I went to meet Captain Cook, whom
I saw coming on shore, in the pinnace. 1 related to him what had
just passed; and he ordered me, in case of their beginning to throw
stones, or behave insolently, immediately to fire a ball at the of-
fenders. I accordingly gave orders to the corporal to have the pieces
of the sentinels loaded with ball, instead of small shot. 

"Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a con-
tinued fire of musket? from the Discovery, which we observed to be
directed at a canoe that we saw paddling toward the shore, in great
haste, pursued by one of our small boats. We immediately concluded
that the firing was in consequence of some theft, and Captain Cook 

98 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

ordered me to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour
to seize the people, as they came on shore. Accordingly, we ran
toward the place where we supposed the canoe would land, but were
too late; the people having quitted it, and made their escape into the
country before our arrival. 

"We were at this time ignorant, that the goods had been already
restored; and as we thought it probable, from the circumstances we
had at first observed, that they might be of importance, were un-
willing to relinquish our hopes of recovering them. Having there-
fore inquired of the natives, which wav the people had fled, we
followed them, till it was near dark, when judging ourselves to be
about three miles from the tents, and suspecting, that the natives, who
frequentlv encouraged us in the pursuit, were amusing us with false
information, we thought it in vain to continue our search any longer.
and returned to the beach. 

"During our absence, a difference, of a more serious and un-
pleasant nature had happened. The officer, who had been sent in
the small boat, and was returning on board, with the goods which
had been restored, observing Captain Cook and me engaged in the
pursuit of the offenders, thought it his duty to seize the canoe, which
was left drawn up on the shore. Unfortunately, this canoe belonged
to Pareea, who arriving at the same moment, from on board the
Discovery, claimed his property, with many protestations of his in-
nocence. The officer refusing to give it up, and being joined by the
crew of the pinnace, which was waiting for Captain Cook, a scufHe
ensued, in which Pareea was knocked down by a violent blow on
the head with an oar. The natives, who were collected about the
spot, and had hitherto been peaceable spectators, immediately at-
tacked our people with such a shower of stones, as forced them to
retreat, with great precipitation, and swim off to a rock, at some dis-
tance from the shore. The pinnace was immediately ransacked by
the islanders; and, but for the timely interposition of Pareea, who
seemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it at the same
instant, would soon have been entirely demolished. Having driven
away the crowd, he made signs to our people that they might come
and take possession of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour to
get back the things which had been taken out of it. After their de-
parture, he followed them in his canoe, with a midshipman's cap,
and some other trifling articles of the plunder, and, with much ap- 

BRITISH COLUxVIBIA 99 

parent concern at what had happened, asked if the Orono would kill
him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the next
day? On being assured that he should be well received, he joined
noses (as their custom is) with the officers, in token of friendship,
and paddled over to the village of Kowrowa. 

"When Captain Cook was informed of what had passed, he ex-
pressed much uneasiness at it, and as we were returning on board,
'I am afraid,' said he, 'that these people will oblige me to use some
violent measures; for,' he added, 'they must not be left to imagine,
that they have gained an advantage over us.' However, as it was too
late to take any steps this evening he contented himself with giving
orders, that every man and woman on board should be immediately
turned out of the ship. As soon as this order was executed, I returned
on shore; and our former confidence in the natives being now much
abated by the events of the day, I posted a double guard on the
Moral, with orders to call me, if they saw any men lurking about
the beach. At about 1 1 o'clock, five islanders were observed creep-
ing round the bottom of the Moral; thev seemed very cautious in
approaching us, and, at last, finding themselves discovered, retired
out of sight. About midnight, one of them venturing up close to the
observatory, the sentinel fired over him; on which the man fled, and
we passed the remainder of the night without farther disturbance. 

"Next morning, at daylight, I went on board the Resolution for
the time-keeper, and, in my way, was hailed by the Discovery, and
informed, that their cutter had been stolen, during the night, from
the buov where it was moored. 

"When I arrived on board I found the marines arming and Cap-
tain Cook loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst 1 was relating
to him wliat had happened to us in the night, he interrupted me,
with some eagerness, and acquainted me with the loss of the Dis-
covery's cutter, and with the preparations he was making for its
recovery. It had been his usual practice, whenever anything of
consequence was lost, at any of the islands in this ocean, to get the
King, or some of the principal Erees, on board, and to keep them
as hostages till i^was restored. This method, which had been always
attended with success, he meant to pursue on the present occasion;
and, at the same time, had given orders to stop all the canoes that
should attempt to leave the bay, with an intention of seizing and
destroying them, if he could not recover the cutter by peaceable 

92 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

immense pine trees, where he observed large fishing weirs composed
of wicker work. Crossing over to the east side he ascertained, as
he had already surmised, that the land off which his ships lay
was a small island. 

While the ship's company were engaged in their several occupa-
tions, Webber, the artist, employed his time in drawing the scenery
and savages of this new and strange country. The anthropologist
and the historian owe him a debt of gratitude for his faithful sketches
of implements, ceremonial trappings, and other objects in common
use among the natives. Many of Webber's sketches are to be found
in the large folio of views which accompanies the official edition of
Cook's Third Voyage. In the meantime, Anderson, the young
surgeon of the expedition, was not idle. He prepared an e.xtended
account of the manners and customs of the aborigines. Anderson's
notes will always be of- interest to the anthropologist and the his-
torian, if for no other reason than that they contain the first scientific
observations upon a primitive social organization and a rude culture
which had existed here from time immemorial. The pagan tribes
of Nootka occupy a place in the history of British Columbia analo-
gous to that of Caesar's Britons in the annals of England. 

On his arrival in the inlet. Captain Cook had named it "King
George's Sound," but later he changed the name to ''Nootka," be-
cause he considered that to be the title by which the place was known
to the natives. It was evidently bestowed under a misapprehension
because there is nothing to show that the natives ever called the place
by that name. Two or three theories have been advanced to account
for Cook's mistake, but perhaps the most reasonable explanation is
that of the Reverend A. J. Brabant, for many years a resident of
Hesquiat. "The word 'Nootka,' " he says, "is the frequentation of
'nootk-sitl,' to go around; make a circuit. 'Nootka-a' would be a
form of the imperative (accent on the last 'a' being slight), go
around. 'Nootka-minish' we have been around. 'Nootka-aktl-nish'
we are about to go around. Some form of the word 'nootka' may be
applied to the making of a circuit of the globe, or of an island small
or large, &c., only the affix varies according to time, person or place." ^
It has been conjectured that Cook, after his reconnaissance of the
Sound may have asked an Indian what the place was called in the
native tongue. The Indian probably misunderstood him, but re- 

* Walbran, British Columbia Coast Names, p. 359; See also Swan, Haidah Indians, pp. 13-14. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 93 

membering that the white men had sailed round the small island, may
possibly have used in reply some form of the derivative "nootk," thus
leaving the impression in Cook's mind that such was the native name
of the place." The explanation is not altogether satisfactory, but be
that as it may, from that day to this the inlet has been known as
Nootka Sound. 

Cook, of course, was not aware of the insular character of the
Nootkan region. He took it for granted that he was on the continen-
tal coast of North America. As a matter of fact Vancouver Island
did not assume its true shape on the map until later than 1792, in
which year Captain Vancouver sailed through the Strait of Juan de
Fuca, the Gulf of Georgia and Johnston's Straits into Queen Char-
lotte Sound, thus establishing the fact that the whole of this region
is detached from the mainland. 

In spite of the fact that the natives possessed, comparatively
speaking, a large amount of iron, which they had no means of pro-
curing for themselves, the explorer concluded, after careful observa-
tion that the Sound had never been visited before. It was evident
that iron was too common, and the use of it too well known, for the
natives to have received their first knowledge of it in the last few
years. It was supposed therefore that the metal things had passed
from tribe to tribe from Hudson's Bay to the shores of the Pacific;
or that they had originally started upon their long journey in Mexico
and reached their destination after passing through the hands of
successive native traders. However, it is just as likely, if not more
probable, that the metal had been obtained in the first place from
Russian traders, who had long ago established posts on the Kam-
chatkan Peninsula. It is not a far cry from Nootka Sound to the
Aleutian Islands. 

In the light of Father Crespi's Journal, Cook's claim to priority
of discovery would seem to be irrefutable. In after years, much
was made of the fact that the two silver spoons stolen from Juan
Perez's vessel, the Srniti(ujo. were purchased from the Indians by
one of Cook's officers. This, it was asserted by the Spaniards, and
later by American writers, proved conclusivelv that Perez had vis-
ited the place in 1774. But Cook expressly relates that the spoons
were obtained, not from inhabitants of the Sound, but from natives 

■' Walbraii, Britisli Coliiml)ia Coast Names, p. 360. 

94 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

who had journeyed some distance to visit the ships. In 1789, Estevan
Jose Martinez himself, in accordance with his instructions, used
Cook's chart apparently because the map of Perez failed to show
Nootka Sound. Of course, this fact can scarcely be adduced as
evidence, because a navigator would naturallv avail himself of the
experience of other explorers. 

Everything at last being in readiness, on the morning of Sunday,
the 26th of April, 1778, the Resolution and Discovery sailed from
Nootka Sound and proceeded on their voyage, passing the locality
"where geographers have placed the pretended Strait of Admiral
de Fonte." Advancing to the north. Cook found the coast from Cape
Edgecumbe trending north and northeasterly for six or seven leagues,
and there forming a large bay, in the entrance of which were some is-
lands, for which reason he named it the Bay of Islands. In this
bay the Spaniards in 1775 evidently found their port, which they
called De los Remedies, in the latitude of 57° 20'. Continuing on
this course, a very high-peaked mountain was discovered, which
was named Mount Fair Weather. 

By May 5th, Cook had reached the latitude of 58' 53', where the
summit of an elevated mountain appeared above the horizon, of which
Cook says, "We supposed it to be Bering's Mount St. Elias, and it
stands bv that name in our chart." By the loth of tliat month, he
passed a point of land which he named Cape Suckling, on the north
side of which is a bay that appeared to be of some extent. Several
small islands were discovered in the bay, one of which was named
Rave's Island as a mark of esteem for the Rev. Dr. Kaye, chap-
lain to His Majesty, George III. Comptroller's Bay was sighted
on May iith and on the 12th a point of land, which Cook named
Cape Hinchingbroke. Hauling close under the latter, the vessels
anchored before a small cove a little within the cape and about a
quarter of a mile from the shore. 

From the above mentioned point Cook sent out expeditionary
parties in small boats to examine arms of the sea, but he soon dis-
covered that the time was wasted in searching for a passage in a
quarter that promised so little success. The expedition was now
about five hundred and twentv leagues to the westward of any part of
Baffin's and Hudson's Bays, and the explorer concluded that if there
were any passage, it should be to the north of latitude 72°. 

Cook left Point Hinchingbroke early in the morning of Monday,
May 18th, on a northern course, discovering and naming islands on 

lev I'.AV AM) MOUNT ST. KLIAS 

Till-: XKW KIHtVSTOM';, IN I'.IIKM 'S CANAl, 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 95 

the way; he finally anchored at 8 o'clock in the evening of the 19th
in the channel between Montagu and Green Islands, about two miles
from the latter. The inlet which he had left on the 19th was named
Prince William Sound, and Cook considered it remarkable concern-
ing the inhabitants thereof, that having articles in their possession,
presumably supplied them by Europeans, "they should, in return,
never have given to the more inland Indians any of their sea-otter
skins; which would certainly have been seen, sometime or other,
about Hudson's Bay. But, as far as 1 know that is not the case;
and the only method of accounting for this, must be by taking in
consideration the very great distance, which, though it might not
prevent European goods coming so far, as being so uncommon,
might prevent the skins, which are a common article, from passing
through more than two or three different tribes, who might use them
for their own clothing; and send others, which they esteemed less
valuable, as being of their own animals. Eastward, till they reach
the traders from Europe." 

From Prince William Sound, Cook steered to the southwest,
and in latitude 59" 10' he discovered a lofty promontory, which he
named Cape Elizabeth, and Cape Douglas was found in latitude
58 56'. But tlic capes, bays, and islands discovered and named
by Cook are too numerous to have a place in a work of this
scope. It is suthcient to know that he continued his voyage
southward until he reached and anchored his vessels in Karakakooa
Bay, Sandwich Islands, in January, 1779, where, in untoward and
sad circumstances, the great navigator lost his life. The details of
this fatality are given at length by Lieutenant James King, who at
the same time pays a high tribute to the character and services of
Captain Cook, whose loss was universally deplored. After giving
an account of the preparations made for the repairing of the Reso-
lution's foremast, the heel of which was found ''exceedingly rot-
ten," Lieutenant King continues: 

"As these repairs were likely to take up several days, Mr. Bayly
and myself, got tlie astronomical apparatus on shore and pitched our
tents on the Monti; having with us a guard of a corporal and six ma-
rines. We renewed our friendiv correspondence with the priests,
who, for the greater security of tlie workmen and their tools, tabooed
the place where the mast lay, sticking their wands round it as before.
The sailmakers were also sent on shore to repair the damages which 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 89 

any of his countrymen paying the least attention to his agitation; and
when none of us could trace the cause, or the object of his displeasure.
In such cases they never discover the least symptom of timidity, but
seem determined, at all events, to punish the insult. For, even with
respect to us, they never appeared to be under the least apprehension
of our superiority; but when any difference happened, were just as
ready to avenge the wrong as amongst themselves. 

"Their other passions, especially their curiosity, appear in some
measure to lie dormant. For few expressed any desire to see or exam-
ine things wholly unknown to them; and which, to those truly pos-
sessed of that passion, would have appeared astonishing. They were
always contented to procure the articles they knew they wanted, re-
garding everything else with great indifference; nor did our per-
sons, apparel, and manners, so different from their own, or even the
extraordinary size and construction of our ships, seem to excite ad-
miration, or even engage attention. 

"One cause of this may be their indolence, which seems consider-
able. But, on the other hand, they are certainly not wholly unsus-
ceptible of the tender passions; if we may judge from their being
so fond of music, which is mostly of the grave or serious, but truly
pathetic sort. They keep the exactest concert in their songs, which
are often sung by great numbers together, as those already mentioned,
with which they used to entertain us in their canoes. These are
generally slow and solemn; but the music is not of that confined
sort found amongst many rude nations; for the variations are very
numerous and expressive, and the cadence or melody powerfully
soothing. Besides their full concerts, sonnets of the same grave cast
were frec^uently sung by single performers, who keep time by strik-
ing the hand against the thigh. However, the music was sometimes
varied, from its predominant solemnity of air; and there were in-
stances of stanzas being sung in a more gay and lively strain, and
even with a degree of humour. 

"The only instruments of music (if such they may be called)
which I saw amongst them, were a rattle; and a small whistle, about
an inch long, incapable of any variation, from having but one hole.
They use the rattle when they sing; but upon what occasions they
use the whistle I know not, unless it be when they dress themselves
like particular animals, and endeavour to imitate their howl or cry.
I once saw one of them dressed in a wolf's skin, with the head over 

90 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

his own, and imitating that animal by making a squeaking noise with
one of these whistles, which he had in his mouth. The rattles are,
for the most part, made in the shape of a bird, with a few pebbles
in the belly, and the tail is the handle. They have others, however,
that bear rather more resemblance to a child's rattle. 

"In trafficking with us, some of them would betray a knavish
disposition, and carry oft our goods without making any return.
But, in general, it was otherwise; and we had abundant reason to
commend the fairness of their conduct. However, their eagerness
to possess iron and brass, and, indeed, any kind of metal, was so great
that few of them could resist the temptation to steal it, whenever an
opportunity offered. The inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, as
appears from a variey of instances in the course of this voyage, rather
than be idle, would steal anything that they could lay their hands
upon, without ever considering, whether it could be of use to them
or no. The novelty of the object, with them, was a sufficient motive
for their endeavouring, by any indirect means, to get possession of it;
which marked that, in such cases, they were rather actuated by a
childish curiosity than by a dishonest disposition, regardless of the
modes of supplying real wants. The inhabitants of Nootka, who
invaded our property, cannot have such apology made for them.
They were thieves in the strictest sense of the word; for they pilfered
nothing from us, but what they knew could be converted to the pur-
poses of private utility, and had a real value according to their esti-
mation of things. And it was lucky for us that nothing was thought
valuable by them, but the single articles of our metals. Linen, and
such like things, were perfectiv secure from their depredations; and
we could safely leave them hanging out ashore all night, without
watching. The same principle which prompted our Nootka friends
to pilfer from us, it was natural to suppose, would produce a similar
conduct in their intercourse with each other. And, accordingly, we
had abundant reason to believe, that stealing is much practiced
amongst them; and that it chiefly gives rise to their quarrels; of
which we saw more than one instance." 

The vessels were no sooner snugly moored in Resolution Cove
than the place assumed an air of unwonted activity. No time was
lost in making the necessary repairs to the ships, which were the
immediate object of the visit. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 91 

An observatory was erected upon an elevated rock on one side
of the cove, close to the Resolution; an officer and a party of men
were sent to cut wood and to clear a place on the beach to facilitate
watering; others were employed in brewing spruce beer and in set-
ting up a blacksmith forge. 

The news of the arrival of strangers soon spread abroad and
brought a great concourse of curious natives from all parts of the
Sound. At times more than a hundred canoes clustered about the
ships. To introduce themselves, as it were, or to announce their ar-
rival, the crews would dexterously propel their canoes three times
round the ships, while a chief, or person of consequence, stood up
and spoke in a loud voice. The Indians brought with them furs
and various implements of native manufacture — cloth of bark, or
woolen stufif, bags filled with red ochre, beads and even ornaments
of brass and iron. But the most extraordinary of all the articles that
they exhibited were "human skulls and hands not yet quite stripped
of the flesh, which they made our people plainly understand they
had eaten; and indeed some of them had evident marks that they
had been upon the fire." From the display of these grim relics
Cook had reason to suspect that the natives were addicted to canni-
balism, although no instance of that horrid practice was observed
while the vessels were anchored in the Sound. It is now known that
the cannibalism of the West Coast tribes was purely ceremonial.
The practice was not general as in the South Sea Islands. The
natives were anxious to trade and readily accepted in exchange for
their various articles looking-glasses, buttons, gewgaws and trinkets,
knives, chisels, iron, tin, and nails, or metal of any kind. Glass beads
and linen neither excited their cupidity nor their vanity. Both were
rejected. These Indians were trained thieves and dexterously re-
moved brass buttons from coats, brass fittings and even nails from
woodwork, in fact, every particle of metal that they could lay their
hands on. 

Cook stayed in Nootka Sound for four weeks. Nearly all of the
time was spent in preparing new masts and spars to take the place of
the ones which had rotted on the long voyage from England — the
first recorded instance of the use of the timber of Vancouver Island
by Europeans. The officers, therefore, had little time to explore the
fiords and arms of the inlet. Cook, however, examined the west side
of the Sound, and visited a deserted village, hard by a grove of

86 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

made of a conic shelly substance; bunches of thongs, with tassels; or
a broad black shining horny substance, of one piece. And about
their ankles they also frequently wear many folds of leathern thongs,
or the sinews of animals twisted to a considerable thickness. 

"Thus far of their ordinary dress and ornaments ; but they have
some that seem to be used only on extraordinary occasions; either
when they exhibit themselves as strangers, in visits of ceremony, or
when they go to war. Amongst the first may be considered the skins_
of animals, such as wolves or bears, tied on in the usual manner, but
ornamented at the edges with broad borders of fur, or of the woolen
stullf manufactured by them, ingeniously wrought with various fig-
ures. These are worn either separately, or over their other common
garments. On such occasions, the most common head-dress is a quan-
tity of withe, or half-beaten bark, wrapped about the head; which,
at the same time, has various large feathers, particularly those of
eagles, stuck in it, or is entirely covered, or, we may say, powdered
with small white feathers. The face, at the same time, is variously
painted, having its upper and lower parts of different colours, the
strokes appearing like fresh gashes; or it is besmeared with a kind
of tallow, mixed with paint, which is afterward formed into a great
variety of regular figures, and appears like carved work. Sometimes,
again, the hair is separated into small parcels, which are tied at inter-
vals of about two inches, to the end, with thread; and others tie it
together, behind, after our manner, and stick branches of the cupres-
sus thyoides in it. Thus dressed, they have a truly savage and incon-
gruous appearance; but this is much heightened when they assume,
what may be called, their monstrous decorations. These consist of
an endless variety of carved wooden masks or vizors, applied on the
face or to the upper part of the head or forehead. Some of these
resemble human faces, furnished with hair, beards, and eye-brows;
others, the heads of birds, particularly of eagles and quebrantahues-
sos; and many, the heads of land and ^a-animals, such as wolves,
deer, porpoises, and others. But, in general, these representations
much exceed the natural size; and they are painted and often strewed
with pieces of foliaceous mica, which makes them glitter, and serv^es
to augment their enormous deformity. They even exceed this some-
times, and fix on the same part of the head large pieces of carved
work, resembling the prow of a canoe, painted in the same manner,
and projecting to a considerable distance. So fond are they of these 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 87 

disguises, that I have seen one of them put his head into a tin kettle
he had got from us, for want of another sort of mask. Whether they
use these extravagant masquerade ornaments on any particular re-
ligious occasion or diversion; or whether they be put on to intimidate
their enemies when they go to battle, by their monstrous appearance;
or as decoys when they go to hunt animals, is uncertain. But it may
be concluded, that, if travellers or voyagers, in an ignorant and
credulous age, when many unnatural or marvellous things were
supposed to exist, had seen a number of people decorated in this
manner, without being able to approach so near as to be undeceived,
they would readily have believed, and, in their relations, would have
attempted to make others believe, that there existed a race of beings
partaking of the nature of man and beast; more especially, when,
besides the heads of animals on the human shoulders, they might have
seen the whole bodies of their men-monsters covered with quadru-
peds' skins."' 

Captain Cook continues: 

"The only dress amongst'the people of Nootka, observed by us,
that seems peculiarly adapted to war, is a thick leathern mantle
doubled, which, irom its size, appears to be the skin of an elk, or
buffalo tanned. This they fasten on, in the common manner; and it
is so contrived, that it may reach up, and cover the breast quite to the
throat, falling, at the same time, almost to the heels. It is, sometimes,
ingeniously painted in different compartments; and it is not only suf-
ficiently strong to resist arrows; but, as they informed us by signs,
even spears cannot pierce it; so that it may be considered as their coat
of mail, or most complete defensive armour. Upon the same occa-
sion, thev sometimes wear a kind of leathern cloak, covered with rows
of dried hoofs of deer, disposed horizontally, appended by leathern
thongs, covered with quills; which, when they move, make a loud
rattling noise, almost equal to that of many small bells. It seems
doubtful, however, whether this part of their garb be intended to
strike terror in war, or only is to be considered as belonging to their
eccentric ornaments on ceremonious occasions. For we saw one of
their musical entertainments, conducted bv a man dressed in this sort
of cloak, with his mask on, and shaking his rattle. 

"Though these people cannot be viewed without a kind of horror,
when equipped in such extravagant dresses, yet, when divested of
them, and beheld in their common habit and actions, they have not 

88 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

the least appearance of ferocity in their countenances; and seem,
on the contrary, as observed already, to be of a quiet, phlegmatic,
and inactive disposition; destitute, in some measure, of that degree
of animation and vivacity that would render them agreeable as social
beings. If they are not reserved, they are far from being loquacious ;
but their gravity is, perhaps, rather a consequence of the disposition
just mentioned, than of any conviction of its propriety, or the effect
of any particular mode of education. For, even in the greatest
paroxysms of their rage, they seem unable to express it sufficiently,
either with warmth of language or significancy of gestures." 

In speaking of the powers of oratory. Cook observes: 

"Their orations, which are made either when engaged in any
altercation or dispute, or to explain their sentiments publicly on
other occasions, seem little more than short sentences, or rather single
words, forcibly repeated and constantly in one tone and degree of
strength, accompanied only with a single gesture, which they use
at every sentence, jerking their whole body a little forward, by bend-
ing the knees, their arms hanging down by their sides at the same
time." 

Captain Cook's account of the manners and customs of the Noot-
kans is important ethnologically, and so interesting historically, that,
in spite of the length of the foregoing excerpt, it may well be con-
cluded in the navigator's own words: 

"Though there be but too much reason, from their bringing
to sale human skulls and bones, to infer that they treat their enemies
with a degree of brutal cruelty, this circumstance rather marks a
general agreement of character with that of almost every tribe of
uncivilized man, in every age, and in every part of the globe, than
that they are to be reproached with any charge of peculiar
inhumanity. We had no reason to judge unfavourably of their dis-
position in this respect. They seem to be a docile, courteous, good-
natured people; but notwithstanding the predominant phlegm, of
their tempers, quick in resenting what they look upon as an injury;
and, like most other passionate people, as soon forgetting it. I never
found that these fits of passion went farther than the parties imme-
diately concerned; the spectators not troubling themselves about the
quarrel, whether it was with any of us, or amongst their own body;
and preserving as much indifference as if they had not known any-
thing about it. I have often seen one of them rave and scold, without 

82 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

At first they thought it must be an island appearing, but as the object
grew larger they saw that it was some kind of water craft. The ship
was going quickly and making great waves. Then it was thought
that it must be the work of Haietlik, or the lightning-snake, making
it move so quickly, and that the snake was working under water;
but others thought it must be the work of Quaots (the supreme deity
of the Nootkans) and therefore a supernatural manifestation. As
the vessel came nearer all the men and wortien grew very much
afraid. Some of them thought that it was magic, and some thought
that it was a salmon that had been changed by magic. But the two
chiefs of the Muchalats thought that it must be the work of Quaots.
A courageous man named Towik, a warrior who had killed at least
ten men, said that it would be well to conceal all the people and to
segregate the women for at least ten months. He also recommended
that all their property should at once be put out of sight. A woman
doctor named Hahatsaik, who had power over all kinds of salmon,
appeared with a whalebone rattle in each hand; she put on her red
cedar bark cap and apron and sang, saying that it must be a salmon
turned into a boat. The natives now launched a canoe with three
strong young men as a crew and the woman magician, Hahatsaik,
sat in the middle. This canoe went out to see the ship, which was
sailing straight for the harbour on Bligh Island, and then followed
behind. Hahatsaik hailed the ship and called out "Hello you, you
spring salmon, hello you dog salmon, hello coho salmon." 

Then another canoe came with another doctor, named Wiwai,
who hailed Captain Cook in the same manner. Wiwai then went
back to the village, and Nanaimis, taking two fine beaver skins out
of his storage chest, put ofif to the ship in his canoe with ten strong
men. Captain Cook hailed the canoe and asked the name of the
chief, who replied, "Mv name is Nanaimis; what is VDur iian"ve?'"
Captain Cook then went into his cabin and came out with blankets
under his arm and asked Nanaimis to come into his ship. But
Nanaimis declined, saying — "No, I would rather stay in my canoe."
Whereupon Cook asked him to shake hands and ofifered him two
black blankets as a free gift. Then Nanaimis saw that Cook was
not an enchanted salmon, but only a man. The chief opened a box-
on which he was sitting and took out the two beaver skins and pre-
sented them to Captain Cook, who accepted them with pleasure. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 83 

Tsaxawasip, or Maquinna, also put ofif to the ship. "I am
Maquinna," said the chief to Captain Cook. "My village is a little
way off there, near the entrance to the inlet. It is a safe and fine
harbour. I want you to come and stay with me next year. You
will be well treated." He then presented a fine sea-otter skin to Cap-
tain Cook, who had by that time put on a fine gold-braided hat which
he offered to Maquinna in return for his gift. Then the natives gave
a wolf dance on the beach for the entertainment of the strangers." 

Such is the tradition of the Nootkan people. It is not an easy
matter to decide as to how much of the story may be worthy of
credence; but it is at least likely that so important an event as the
sudden appearance of two large vessels off Nootka would find a
place in the annals of the native tribes of that locality. 

Captain Cook's description of the natives, their character and
habits, is minute and interesting. Long as it is, that description
deserves a place in a narrative dealing with the earliest beginnings
of the history of the Northwest Coast, and it will therefore be quoted
in full. It follows: 

"The persons of the natives are, in general, under the common
stature; but not slender in proportion, being commonly pretty full
or plump, though not muscular. Neither doth the soft fleshiness
seem ever to swell into corpulence; and many of the older people
are rather spare, or lean. The visage of most of them is round and
full; and sometimes, also, broad, with high prominent cheeks; and,
above these, the face is frequently much depressed, or seems fallen
in quite across between the temples; the nose also flattening at its
base, with pretty wide nostrils, and a rounded point. The forehead
rather low; the eyes small, black, and rather languishing than spark-
ling; the mouth round, with large round thickish lips; the teeth tol-
erably equal and well set, but not remarkably white. They have
either no beards at all, which was most commonly the case, or a small
thin one upon the point of the chin; which does not arise from any
natural defect of hair on that part, but from plucking it out more or
less; for some of them, and particularly the old men, have not only
considerable beards all over the chin, but whiskers, or mustachios;
both on the upper lip and running from thence toward the lower jaw
obliquely downward. Their eye-brows are also scanty and always 

' Chief George of Nootka Sound is the avithnrity for this lepend. 

84 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

narrow; but the hair of the head is in great abundance, very coarse
and strong; and, without a single exception, black, straight, and lank,
or hanging down over the shoulders. The neck is short; the arms
and body have no particular mark of beauty or elegance m their
formation, but are rather clumsy; and the limbs, in all, are very
small in proportion to the other parts, and crooked, or ill made, with
large feet badly shaped, and projecting ankles. This last defect
seems, in a great measure, to arise from their sitting too much on their
hams or knees, both in their canoes and houses. 

"Their colour we could never positively determine, as their bodies
were incrusted with paint and dirt; though, in particular cases, when
these were well rubbed oft, the whiteness of the skin appeared almost
to equal that of Europeans; though rather of that pale effete cast
which distinguishes those of our Southern nations. Their children,
whose skins had never been stained with paint, also equalled ours
in whiteness. During their youth, some of them have no disagree-
able look, if compared to the generality of the people; but this seems
to be entirely owing to the particular animation attending that period
of life; for, after attaining a certain age, there is hardly any dis-
tinction. Upon the whole, a very remarkable sameness seems to I
characterize the countenances of the whole nation; a dull phlegmatic
want of expression, with very little variation, being strongly marked
in all of them. 

"The women are nearly of the same size, colour, and form, with
the men, from whom it is not easy to distinguish them, as they pos-
sess no natural delicacies sufficient to render their persons agreeable;
and hardly any one was seen, even amongst those who were in the
prime of life, who had the least pretensions to be called handsome. 

"Their common dress is a flaxen garment, or mantle, ornamented
on the upper edge by a narrow strip of fur, and, at the lower edge,
bv fringes or tassels. It passes under the left arm and is tied over
the right shoulder by a string before, and one behind, near its middle ;
by which means both arms are left free; and it hangs evenly, cover-
ing the left side, but leaving the right open, except from the loose
part of the edges falling upon it, unless when the mantle is fastened
bv a girdle (of coarse matting or woolen) round the waist, which
is often done. Over this, which reaches below the knees, is worn a
small cloak of the same substance, likewise fringed at the lower part.
In shape this resembles a round dish cover, being quite close, except
in the middle, where there is a hole just large enough to admit the 

> 

55 

O
H 

-r. 

c 

X 

X 

I 
BRITISH COLUMBIA 85 

head; and then, resting upon the shoulders, it covers the arms to the
elbows, and the body as far as the waist. Their head is covered with
a cap, of the figure of a truncated cone, or like a fiower-pot, made of
fine matting, having the top frequently ornamented with a round or
pointed knob, or bunch of leathern tassels; and there is a string that
passes under the chin, to prevent its blowing off. 

"Besides the above dress, which is common to both sexes, the
men frequently throw over their other garments the skin of a bear,
wolf, or sea-otter, with the hair outward, and tie it, as a cloak, near
the upper part, wearing it sometimes before, and sometimes behind.
In rainy weather, they throw a coarse mat about their shoulders.
They have also woolen garments, which, however, are little in use.
The hair is commonly worn hanging down loose; but some, when
they have no cap, tie it in a bunch on the crown of the head. 

"Their dress, upon the whole, is convenient, and would by no
means be inelegant were it kept clean. But as they rub their bodies
constantly over with a red paint, of a clayey or coarse ochry sub-
stance, mixed with oil, their garments, by this means, contract a
rancid offensive smell and a greasv nastiness. So that they make
a very wretched, dirty appearance; and, what is still worse, their
heads and their garments swarm with vermin, which, so depraved
is their taste for cleanliness, we used to see them pick off, with great
composure, and eat. v 

"Though their bodies are always covered with red paint, their
faces are often stained with a black, a brighter red, or a white colour,
by way of ornament. The last of these gives them a ghastly, dis-
gusting aspect. They also strew the brown martial mica upon the
paint, which makes it glitter. The ears of many of them arc per-
forated in the lobe, where they make a pretty large hole; and two
others higher up on the outer edge. In these holes they hang bits
of bone; (]uills fi.xed upon a leathern thong; small shells; bunches of
woolen tassels, or pieces of thin copper, which our beads could never
supplant. The septum of the nose, in many, is also perforated,
through which they draw a piece of soft cord; and others wear, at
the same place, small thin pieces of iron, brass, or copper, shaped
almost like a horseshoe, the narrow opening of which receives the
septum, so as that the two points may gently pinch it; and the orna-
«Tient thus hangs over the upper lip. The rings of our brass buttons,
which they eagerly purchased, were appropriated to this use. About
their wrists they wear bracelets or bunches of white bugle beads, 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 79 

back upon his course as far southward as the forty-second parallel.
Then boisterous weather and calms succeeded each other for several
days; so it was not until March 22nd that land was again seen
at a distance of nine leagues, in latitude 47" 5'. A small round
hill to the northward had the appearance of an island and "between
this islr.nd or rock and the northern extreme of the land ther,
appeared to be a small opening, which flattered us with the hopes
of finding an harbour." But these hopes were not realized, for as
the vessels drew nearer it appeared that the wished-for opening was
closed by low land. "On this account," observes Cook, "I called
the point of land to the north of it Cape Flattery," and so one of the
landmarks of the northwest coast received its name. From that day
to this the name Cape Flattery has appeared on the charts to com-
memorate the disappointment of the famous circumnavigator. Cook
describes the land to the southward as of moderate height, covered
with forests, and pleasant and fertile in appearance. According to
an observation taken on board the Resolution, the Cape lay in lat-
itude 48" 15' north. Its true position, however, is latitude 48" 22'/'
north and longitude 124 44' west.' It is worthy of notice that
Cook's observations vary little from those taken with the greatest care
in more recent years by officers of the Royal Navy and the Coast
and Geodetic Survey of the United States; on the other hand, the
positions assigned to the various capes, bays and inlets of this region
by the Spaniards are, as a general rule, far from correct. 

While in the neighbourhood Cook searched for the strait said to
have been discovered in 1592 by the Greek pilot, Apostolos Valer-
ianos, or Juan de Fuca, but his efforts were no more successful than
those of the Spaniards three years before, and for the same reason,
— on both occasions the opening was sought between the forty-seventh
and forty-eighth parallels, the position given by Michael Lok, Dclisle
and Buache. It is evident that Cook was not favourably impressed
with the narratives of geographers respecting the discovery of the
Strait of Anian. More than once he speaks strongly upon the
subject. His remarks touching Martin d'Aguilar have been noted.
Later he as contemptuously dismissed the relation of De Fonte. Now,
. in a few terse sentences, he disposed of the oft repeated account of
the Greek pilot's voyage: "It is in this very latitude where we now
were," Cook writes, "that geographers have placed the pretended 

' Brilivli Columbia Pilot, 3d ed., 1905, p. 24. 

80 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

strait of Juan de Fuca. But we saw nothing like it; nor is there the
least probability that ever any such thing existed." - Yet, within a
few miles lay the entrance to a strait leading to a labyrinth of sounds,
inlets, gulfs and bays, studded with rock-girt, wooded islands of en-
chanting loveliness, — one of the most beautiful inland seas of the
world. It was peculiarly unfortunate that at this time the Resolution
and Discovery were obliged to find an oiling in the teeth of a gale
that threatened to drive them ashore. Otherwise Cook might have
discovered, or rediscovered, the strait found by Captain Barkley of
the Loudoun, or Imperial Eagle, in 1787, and named by him in
honour of the mythical hero Juan de Fuca. 

But that was not to be. Cook passed the opening at sea in storm
and sleet. He did not make another landfall until Sunday, March
29th, when the rugged snow-covered hills of Vancouver Island hove
in sight. The valleys and the coast were covered with tall straight
trees "that formed a beautiful prospect, as of one vast forest." In
the southeast the land formed a low point, ofif which a line of foam
marked the position of sunken rocks and on that account it was
named Point Breakers. Observations determined that Point Break-
ers was in latitude 49° 15' and Woody Point in latitude 50°. Woody
Point is now known as Cape Cook and Breakers Point as Point
Estevan. The extensive bight between these points was called Hope
Bay because it was hoped that in it a good harbour would be found
nor in this was the explorer disappointed. In the evening the Reso-
lution entered an arm of the sea and anchored, so close to shore that
it could be reached with a hawser. The wind failed the Discovery
however, and she lay for the night ofif the entrance to the inlet. Thus,
on March 29, 1778, the storm-beaten vessels found a safe haven,
where it was hoped "all their wants would be plentifully supplied." 

On the following morning a search was made for a safe anchorage
which was soon found. Not far from where the ships lay Cook dis-
covered "a convenient, snug cove well suited to our purpose." Lieu-
tenant King, who had been despatched with three armed boats early
in the morning to reconnoitre the inlet, returned at mid-day with the
report that he had found an excellent harbour lying on the north-
west side of the land. But to save time, it was decided to make the
headquarters of the expedition in the small bay discovered by the
commander. On Tuesday the thirty-first the ships were hauled into 

' Cook, Voyages, p. 263. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 81 

Resolution Cove, where they were moored, head and stern, the
hawsers being fastened to the trees on shore. 

No sooner had the ships anchored in Hope Bay than it was dis-
covered that the land was inhabited. Three canoes approached and
one of the natives made a long harangue, in the course of which he
cast white feathers upon the water, while some of his companions
threw handfuls of red dust or powder. The orator was clad in fur
and held in each hand a rattle which he used vigorously. After
repeated exhortations, of which not a word was understood, the
natives lay at a little distance from the ship and conversed with each
other without exhibiting the least surprise. Now and again the
harangue would be repeated, but what pleased the strangers more
than this guttural oratory was an air sung "with a degree of soft-
ness and melody which we could not have expected; the word
'haela' being oft repeated as the burden of the song." Many canoes
soon gathered about the ships. At one time no less than thirty-two
were observed, each carrying from three to eight persons, men and
women. One of the little vessels attracted particular attention on
account of its emblazonment of a bird's eye and bill of an enormous
size. In it sat a chief of some consequence, who was no less remark-
able than his little vessel. His head-dress was of feathers and he was
painted in an extraordinary manner: "He held in his hand a carved
bird of wood, as large as a pigeon, with which he rattled as the
person first mentioned had done; and was no less vociferous with
his harangue, which was attended with some expressive gestures." 

The natives behaved very peaceably and gave no sign of hostility,
but they could by no means be induced to go on board. Apart from
this evidence of timidity, however, they gave no sign of fear and
traded with great readiness, taking whatever was oflfered in exchange
for their belongings. They were more anxious for iron than for
any other commodity, appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the
use of that metal. 

With reference to Cook's discovery of Nootka Sound it may be
worth while to recall that the legendary lore of the Indians of that
place is not silent upon the point. There is today a tradition among
the Nootkan Indians which runs somewhat as follows: One day
two chiefs, Tsaxawasip (one of Chief Maquinna's names) and
Nanaimis of the Muchalats, saw in the offing the tops of three sticks
rising up, which bye and bye grew bigger and rose out of the water. 

Vol. I— (1

BRITISH COLUMBIA 77 

It is worthy of notice in passing that while the Resolution and 

Discovery were off Plymouth the Diamond, Ambuscade and Uni- 

1 corn of the Royal Navy, with a fleet of transports consisting of sixty- 

1 two sail, bound to America with the last division of the Hessian troops 

and some cavalry, were forced into the Sound by adverse winds. Of 

I this coincidence Cook remarks: "It could not but occur to us as a 

I singular and affecting circumstance that at the very instance of our 

i departure upon a voyage, the object of which was to benefit Europe 

bv making fresh discoveries in North America, there should be the 

' unhappy necessity of employing others of His Majesty's ships and 

, of conveving numerous bodies of land forces to secure the obedience 

i - o 

I of those of that continent which had been discovered and settled 

; by our country men in the last century." 

j In spite of the fact that so much time and trouble had been spent 

I in preparing the vessels for sea, it was found that the seams of the
Resolution had been so badly calked that they opened in the equa-
torial heat, and quantities of water entered the vessel. In fact, "there
was hardly a man that could lie dry in his bed; the officers in the
gun room were all driven out of their cabin by the water that came
in through the sides." The spare sails were seriously damaged,
and some quite ruined before they could be dried. Otherwise the
voyage to the Cape of Good Hope was generally without incident.
The equator was crossed on September ist in longitude 27° 38' W.,
and Cape of Good Hope was sighted October 17th. The anchor
was let go in Table Bay the day after. On November loth the
Discovery joined the Resolution at that port. The principal occu-
pation of the crews at Cape Town consisted of exercising on shore
the live cargo carried by the vessels. Two bulls, two heifers, two
horses, two mares and two rams, not to mention ewes, goats, rabbits
and poultry, were purchased at the Cape, to stock islands where 

I some of them "might prove useful to posterity." It is recorded 

j that when the Resolution left Table Bay she resembled Noah's 

I Ark. 

On the 30th of November, 1776, the vessels again weighed anchor.
After visiting Kerguelen Land, Van Diemen's Land, New Zea-
land and the Friendly or Society Islands, Cook discovered early in
the following year a group of large islands which he named the
Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, who had
displayed so great an interest in the expedition.