PETERSHAM CHUK( IIVARI), SURRKY, ENGLAND 

WTiere stands tlio tomb and nionumontal tablet orccted to the memory of Captain George 

\'ancouver by the Hudson's Bay Company 

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BRITISH COLUMBIA 197 

to Maquinna at I ashees. The barbaric splendour of their reception
at the hands of this celebrated personage Vancouver describes very
fully — the lengthy, earnest address of welcome, the grotesque group
of painted performers, their savage and barbarous appearance, their
peculiar music, their grotesque masks and strange musical dresses —
then the giving of gifts again and again until the stock that the
visitors had brought was completely exhausted. A few days after
their return to the cove the Spanish officers were Vancouver's guests
upon the Discovery and no instructions relative to the cession of the
territory at Nootka having arrived, on the i6th October, 1794, Cap-
tain Vancouver ordered the anchor to be weighed, the sails were
unfurled, and the Discovery bade adieu to our coasts forever. The
Discovery and the Chatham after a short stay at Monterey sailed in
December, 1794, for England. In a heavy gale the Discovery's
main mast was sprung, and scurvy having made its appearance the
vessel called at V^alparaiso for the necessary assistance. Resuming
the voyage, Cape Horn was rounded and the Chatham arrived in
London on October 17, 1795, the Discovery three days later. 

After his return Vancouver devoted himself entirely to the prep-
aration of his Journal for publication. He had corrected all the
proofs except the last few pages when he died at the old Star and
Garter Inn, Richmond Hill, Surrey, May 10, 1798. He was buried
in the church yard of St. Peters, at Petersham, on the i8th.^^ Con-
sidering that Vancouver was not yet forty-one years of age at the
time of his death all must marvel at his abilities which caused him
at thirty-four years of age to be selected for such an important office,
and that enabled him to carry it through in a manner which has
evoked the highest praise from every student of our history and
geography. It was eminently proper that the name of such a man
should have been selected for the great, bustling city at the terminus
of the Canadian Pacific Railway. 

'2 Walbran's Place Names, Vancouver. 

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BRITISH COLUMBIA 193 

says: "These appeared to be well constructed; the boards forming the
sides of the houses were well-fitted, and the roo*fs rose from each side
with sufficient inclination to throw ofif the rain. The gable ends were
decorated with curious painting, and near one or two of the more
conspicuous mansions were carved figures in large logs of timber,
representing a gigantic human form, with strange and uncommonly
distorted features." '* 

Not only did Vancouver survey minutely the continental shore
and examine the various winding canals, but he paid careful atten-
tion also to the habits and customs of the natives, as the above extract
shows in reference to their houses. He gives a description of the
labret, that strange, disfiguring lip ornament so common in the early
days amongst the northern Indians. Some of these were two and a
half, and even three and four tenths, inches in length and an inch and
a half broad. So too, he noticed the woollen garments, so beauti-
fully woven by these Indians, and the clothing made from pine bark,
in some instances with sea-otter fur worked into it and decorated with
very fine, well spun, and vari-coloured woollen yarn. As he pursued
his investigations in the neighbourhood of Greenville canal and
Nepean Sound, as he called them, he noticed that the natives seemed
to differ in a trifling degree from those he had been accustomed
to sec; "they were not taller," he says, "but they were stouter, their
faces more round and flat, their hair, coarse, straight, black and cut
short to their head; in this respect they differed from any of the
tribes of North West America with whom we had met, who, though
in various fashions, universally wore their hair long, which was in
genera! of a soft nature, and chiefly of a light or dark brown colour,
seldom approaching to black." '" 

Proceeding steadily northward, bestowing the names of his
friends on islands and capes, and thus giving a sort of immortality to
many who would otherwise have been forgotten, he reached the
latitude of the Skecna River. But Vancouver did not see this stream
as he had kept along the outside fringe of islands, although he named
Port Essington. Here he met three vessels the Butterworth, of Lon-
don, Pinire Lee Boo and Jackall , all in command of a Captain Brown.
The traders saluted with seven guns, Vancouver replied with five. 

'* Vancouver's Voyage. Quarto ed., vol. 2, p. 272.
" Vancouver's Voyage, Quarto ed., vol. 2, p. 320. 

vni r — t.i 

194 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

From these vessels it was learned that the vicinity was strewn with
dangerous rocks; an offer of one of the trading vessels to serve as a
pilot was gladly accepted. Captain Brown spoke of a large opening
extending northeastward, whose southern entrance was in latitude
54° 45'. This, opined Vancouver, was probably the same as that
laid down in Sefior Comaano's chart as Estrecho de Almirantc
Fuentes, or De Fonte's Strait. This is the Observatory Inlet and
Portland Canal, which figured so prominently in the Alaskan
boundary dispute of later vears. 

In Behm Canal, V^ancouver noticed a strange spired rock. At once
the Eddystone lighthouse comes to his mind, and New Eddystone
takes its place on the map. It is now the middle of August, 1793,
and here Vancouver meets and names the hunch-backed salmon. He
says it is "the worst eating fish"; that the hateful protuberance is
more marked in the male than in the female; and that the mouths of
both were made in a kind of hook, resembling the upper mandible
of a hawk. Here, too, Vancouver had some trouble with the Indians.
Under the guise of honest trade — which he, of course, did not seek —
they surrounded his small boat, and incited by an old woman they
attempted to steal anything movable in it. They seized the oars, and
brandished their spears. For a time things assumed a threatening
attitude. The altercation attracted the attention of Mr. Puget in
the yawl. He hurried to Vancouver's support, but the situation
became so dangerous that Vancouver was compelled, in order to
save his crew (whose inaction under his orders was mistaken for
pusillanimity) to fire upon their assailants. This action, as unex-
pected as it was effective, solved the difficulty. The Indians leaped
into the sea, putting their canoes between themselves and Vancouver.
Before he could follow the affair up, he found that two of his men
had been very severely, but not fatally, wounded and required
the immediate attention of the surgeon. He was, therefore, reluct-
antly compelled to desist from teaching the savages a salutary lesson. 

About September 20th Vancouver reached Cape Decision in lat-
itude 56". Wishing to spend some time in the examination of the
western shore of Queen Charlotte Islands, he accordingly decided
to turn his vessels' prows southward at this point. He reached
Nootka on October qth. The only vessel there was the San Carlos.
laid up for the winter. The Daedalus, which he had hoped would 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 195 

have returned from Port Jackson, had not arrived. A French vessel,
La Flavia, having on board a very valuable cargo of European com-
modities for Kamschatka, to be exchanged there for furs with which
a cargo of tea was to be purchased in China, had called at Nootka
in the course of the summer. Such incidents show the growing im-
portance of that port. 

After remaining only three days the Discovery and the Chatham
sailed for the Californian coast. Between San Francisco and Mon-
terey the Daedalus was met, northward bound. On this visit Van-
couver received treatment the very reverse of that which Quadra
had accorded to him in the preceding year. Seiior Arrillaga, the
commandant, refused to allow any persons except the officers to
land unless actually engaged in obtaining wood and water or other
necessary services, and then only within sight of a Spanish officer.
He further required that all persons return to the ships by sun-down;
and while he permitted an observatory to be erected he would not
e.xcept the observer from this rule. Lastly he requested that the
utmost expedition be employed, so that the vessels, even under these
iron-clad arrangements, might depart at the earliest moment. Con-
sidering the whole matter, Vancouver rightly concluded, immedi-
ately upon finishing his examination of the California coast, to sail
to the Sandwich Islands, where he doubted not that the uneducated
inhabitants would cheerfully aflford the accommodation so unkindly
denied him at San P^rancisco and Monterey. About December 14,
1793, the little fleet sailed from the American coast and arrived at
the Sandwich Islands on January 8, 1794. 

F"r()ni that time until the middle of March, Vancouver was en-
gaged in exploring and charting the Sandwich Islands. Sailing
again for the American coast with the Discovery and the Chatham —
the Daedalus having previously left for Australia — Vancouver
sighted it in latitude 55" on April 4, 1794. As his work during this
— his third — season was entirelv outside our boundaries it will not
be followed in detail. In August the exploration was concluded and
Vancouver informs us that Mr. Whidby took possession of the
whole coast from New Georgia northwestward to Cape Spencer.
Describing that event, which took place on the shores of Prince
Frederick's Sound, while the surveying parties stopped to dine, he
says: "The colours were displayed, the boats' crews drawn up under 

196 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

arms, and possession taken under the discharge of three vollies of
musketry, with all the other formalities usual on such occasions, and
a double allowance of grog was served to the respective crews, for
the purpose of drinking His Majesty's health." How different from
stately and solemn Spanish ceremony already described! ^° 

Vancouver now sailed for Nootka Sound, where he arrived on
September 2nd. Lying at anchor at Friendly Cove he found the
Spanish vessels, Princessa, Aranzuzu, and San Carlos, the Phoenix,
a barque from Bengal commanded by Captain Moor, the sloop
Lee Boo, which he had met in the preceding year, and the Washing-
ton, now rigged as a brig and commanded by Captain Kendrick.
Brigadier General Don Jose Manuel Alava, the new Governor of
Nootka, had only arrived the day before in the Princessa. This
appointment had taken place owing to the death in March, 1794, at
San Bias, of our highly valuable and much esteemed friend Sefior
Quadra. In relating this circumstance Vancouver makes very plain
the great admiration and respect he entertained for the Spanish rep-
resentative. He tells us that the sudden news of his death "produced
the deepest regret for the loss of a character so amiable and so truly
ornamental to civil society." ^^ 

Vancouver soon learned that Alava expected soon to receive the
credentials necessary to enable him to finish the pending negotiation
respecting the cession of territory mentioned in the Nootka Conven-
tion on which he and Quadra had been unable to agree. Although
two years had since gone by Vancouver had received no communica-
tion thereon either of a public or private nature. Thinking it highly
probable that instructions would reach him by the same conveyance
as that by which Alava's were transmitted he determined to remain
for a time at Friendly Cove. The necessity of repairs to his vessels,
of obtaining new planking and spars, of erecting an observatory to
check his recent surveys, and of preparing new cordage added many
valid reasons for a short delay at this historic spot. 

About six weeks were spent at Nootka on this occasion. In that
interval the Jenny of Bristol, now commanded by Captain Adamson,
and the Jackall of Captain Brown's fleet, arrived at this Mecca of
the maritime furtraders. Vancouver and Alava made a state visit 

^"Vancouver's Voyage, Quarto ed., vol. 3, p. 285.
'1 Id., p. 301. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 189 

letter and on receiving an answer from him in the affirmative, I
acquainted him that 1 should consider Nootka as a Spanish port and
requested his permission to carry on our necessary employment on
shore, which he very politely gave, with the most friendly assurance
of every service and kind offices in his power to grant." "' 

The negotiations having thus been brought to a conclusion, both
Vancouver and Bodega y Quadra prepared to sail south for the
winter. Jacinto Caamano was appointed to take charge of the port
until the arrival of Fidalgo in the Princessa. The Activa then made
ready to sail and Vancouver likewise prepared his vessels for their
southern cruise. Before the officers parted, however, Vancouver in
a formal letter advised Bodega y Quadra that as he could not receive
the territory in dispute on the conditions proposed, he would imme-
diately report the result of the negotiations to the Court of London
and wait for further instructions for the regulation of his future
conduct. I'he next day Bodega y Quadra acknowledged the receipt
of the communication and the charts of the coast which Vancouver
had transmitted a few days before. These notes concluded the
correspondence of that year ( 1792) . 

On Friday, September 21st, Vancouver gave a farewell dinner to
the Spanish commander and "the day passed with the utmost cheer-
fulness and hilarity." The ne.xt day the Activa sailed from Friendly
Cove. 

Nootka Sound in tiiat day was the recognized rendez vous of the
traders resorting to the Northwest coast. Here they beached and
repaired their vessels and here they refitted and replenished their
water casks and conducted all the operations that must of necessity
be performed after long and stormy voyages. Nootka Sound in the
years when the furtrade flourished frequently presented an animated
scene. While Vancouver was there, in the summer of 1792, an
English and an American shallop were on the stocks in the cove,
which when finished were to be employed in collecting skins in the
inland waters of the coast. At anchor in the stream lay the American
brig Hope, in command of Ingraham; a French ship; the Venus, of
Bengal, commanded by one Shepherd; the Spanish ships of war
Gertriidis and Conccpcion, of thirty-si.x guns each; the brig Activa
of twelve guns; the Princessa, Aranzuzti and San Carlos, transport 

"Vancouver's \oyage, Unarm eel., vol. i, p. 403. 

190 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

and storeships; the little vessels, Sittil and Mexicana, commanded by
Galiano and Valdez, and His Majesty's ships Discovery, Cliatluim
and Daedalus. On the shores of Friendly Cove were the officers'
quarters, barracks, a hospital, storehouses, and other buildings. 

Vancouver was greatly impressed with the establishment. He
remarked that the buildings "appeared sufficiently secure, and more
extensive than our occasions required. A large new oven had been
lately built expressly for our services, and had not hitherto been
permitted to be used. The houses had been all repaired, and the
gardeners were busilv emploved in putting the gardens in order.
The poultry, consisting of fowls and turkeys, was in excellent con-
dition, and in abundance, as were the black cattle and swine." '' From
these and other remarks of the British officer it is to be gathered that
after the re-occupation of the place in 1790 the Spaniards had
bestowed no little care upon the establishment. In fact, it is evident
that the Spanish government had intended to occupv it permanently
and would have done so had it not been for the Nootka Convention.
Such was Nootka in the year 1792. 

Vancouver, with the three British vessels, left Nootka on October
13, 1792. At the outset owing to a sudden calm the Chatham was
swept by the tide against a rocky point of the cove and it was only by
strenuous exertions and assistance from the Daedalus that the vessel
was got off without any apparent injury, though she had struck very
heavily. On the Discovery Vancouver had two strange passengers.
They were two young women of the Sandwich Islands who had
sailed from their native land in the Jenny of Bristol. That vessel
had only arrived at Nootka, on her wav to England, a few days
before Vancouver's departure and at the captain's earnest request he
consented to give them a return passage to their homes. Passing by
Cape Classet he records that "hnding that this name had originated
only from that of an inferior chief's residing in this neighbourhood,"
he had restored Captain Cook's appellation of Cape Flattery. The
Daedalus was detached to examine Grav's Harbour, while the
Chatham and Discovery explored the Columbia. The former led
the way, but as the water shoaled and was breaking in every direction
the Discovery "hauled to the westward to avoid the threatened
danger." Just as he turned away Vancouver saw, in the fading light. 

'" Vancouver's Voyage, Quarto eii., vol. i, p. 393. 

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BRITISH COLUMBIA 191 

signals from the Chatluim, which however he could not clearly
understand. Finding ten fathoms water he anchored for the night.
At day break on the 20th he was delighted to see the Chatlunu ten
miles nearer the shore, but was grieved to learn from Mr. Johnstone,
her lieutenant, that the surf had been so heavy during the night as to
destroy one of her small boats by dashing it upon the deck. He then
recorded his opinion that the port was "inaccessible to vessels of our
burthen . . . with this exception, that in very fine weather, with
moderate winds and a smooth sea, vessels not exceeding tour hundred
tons, might, so far as we were enabled to judge, gain admittance." 

On that day however he made another attempt; but while the
C/int/uim made headway the Discovery was driven out by the strength
of the current, the wind having died away. The -morning of the 21st
a heavy gale was blowing and Vancouver concluded to abandon the
attempt, leaving Lieutenant Broughton to examine the Columbia in
the smaller vessel. Ill fortune pursued her, howev^er, and tliat very
day the Chatham grounded upon an extensive shoal iir mid-channci,
but, later, being floated she was anchored in safety. Vancouver com-
plains that Captain Gray's chart, which Lieutenant Broughton had
with him, did not much resemble what it purported to represent, and
that this shoal had completely escaped that navigator's attention.
Even the spot at which Captain Gray showed an anchorage was found
|| to be very shallow. The difiference in the season of the year no doubt
accounts for these and other discrepancies. Having resolved to
make his examination in the cutter and the launch, Lieutenant
Broughton set out on October 24th, with a week's provisions. Pro-
ceeding carefully up the river, noting exactly the conditions prevail-
ing, surveying the course of the stream, and naiiiiiitj; the principal
points, bays, and islands, he reached on the 31'th, Point \'ancouver,
which he considered to be 84 miles up the river and 100 miles from
the Chatham, which lay in the estuary. After formally taking pos-
session of the country in His Britannic Majesty's name (on which
occasion, it is gravelv recorded that the Indian chief who accom-
panied him, drank His Majesty's health), Broughton set out on the
return to his vessel, (jetting out of the river, the CJuiiIuidi maiic her
way to San Francisco where the Discovery lay. I he two vessels in
company proceeded to Monterey where the Dncdalns had already
arrived. After about two months occupied in preparing the charts, 

192 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

drawings, letters, and other documents for transmission to England
in charge of Lieutenant Broughton, during which period Sehor
Quadra showered upon Captain Vancouver every kindness and
thoughtful consideration, the Discovery and the Chatham sailed for
the Sandwich Islands. Lieutenant Broughton was ordered to repair
to England with these papers, covering the work, to that date, with-
out a moment's loss of time. 

Leaving the Sandwich Islands in March, 1793, Vancouver with
the Discovery made the coast at the spot discovered by Senor Quadra's
expedition in 1775 and named Porto de la Trinidad in latitude about
41° north. While there Mr. Menzies found upon a hill the cross
which the Spaniards had erected in taking possession. It was in a
state of decay but a portion of the inscription was still legible.
Nootka was reached on May 20th, only to find that the Chatham,
which had arrived about the middle of April, had sailed on May
i8th. The Spanish fort on Hog Island had been erected during
Vancouver's absence. It mounted eleven nine-pounders and "added
greatly to the respectability of the establishment." The Discovery
saluted the fort, and the honour was returned. The Spanish vessel
San Carlos, in command of Senor Don Ramon Saavedra, anchored
soon after Vancouver's arrival. Senor Fidalgo, the governor of the
port, informed the English commander that Saavedra was to super-
sede him and that being therefore about to return to San Bias he
would take charge of and forward any dispatches through that chan-
nel to England — an opportunity of which Vancouver readily availed
himself. 

After a delay of four days Vancouver sailed to the northward
to take up his work in the vicinity of Calvert Island where it had
ended in the preceding year. Proceeding up Fitzhugh Sound the
Chatham was met and together the vessels continued the survey of
the maze of islands and intricate waterways which form our coast
line. Here the work was carried on, generally speaking, by means of
boat excursions with the ships as a central point, which from time to
time was changed as the more important of the channels were exam-
ined and charted. On the 3rd, 4th and 5th of June, 1793, the survey-
ing parties were in Dean's Canal and Cascade Canal. This is the
localit\' which Alexander Mackenzie reached about the 22nd of the
next month. Describing the habitations of the natives Vancouver 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 185 

It should not be forgotten that these negotiations were of a delicate
nature. A little lack of consideration for the feelings of others, a
small show of bitterness or resentment on the part of either com-
missioner, might have caused national prejudices to blaze forth with
disastrous consequences, but dignity, courtesy, and magnanimity
marked the occasion. Whatever may have been his feelings. Bodega
y Quadra did not display any bitterness ; and Vancouver, disappointed
as he was at his failure to bring the matter to a successful issue,
was careful not to give voice to his thoughts. It was fortunate that
such strong men had been charged with the conduct of the affair. 

The official correspondence of the two officers was severely formal.
It cannot be better illustrated than by their notes exchanged on Sep-
tember the 13th, 1792, and Vancouver's minute of the 15th which
follow in order. Vancouver writes thus to Bodega y Quadra on the
13th, in riposte to the Spaniards home-thrust of the previous day, in
the courteous diplomatic duel going on between them: 

On board his Britannic Majesty's Ship Discovery, 

Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, 13th September, 1792. 

Sir:— 

1 am excessively concernd that after the explanatory con-
versation which took place yesterday to find on the translation of your
letter of that date any further necessity of corresponding on the
subject of these Territories ! What 1 understand to be the Territories
of wch his Britannic Majesties subjects were dispossessed of & to be
restord to them by the ist Article of the Convention & Count Florida
Blanca's Letter, is this Place, intoto, & Port Cox, of wch if it's not
your power to put me in full possession I can have no Idea of hoisting
the British flag on the spot you have pointed out in this Cove of but
little more than an hundred yards in extent any way. If therefore
that is your situation, I must decline recieving any such restitucion
on the part of his Britannic Majesty & so soon as his Britannic
Majesty's Vessels under my command are in readiness I shall proceed
to sea untill I shall recievc further directions from the British Court
on this subject, nor can I avoid in this instance observing the material
difference of the language of your two last letters from that of your
first, in wch if the Translation is right, you say: "but comprehending
the Spirit of the King my Master is to establish a solid Peace & 

186 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

permanent with all nations & consulting to remove Obstacles wch
inrtuence discord far from thinking to continue in this Port I am
ready without prejudice to our legitimate rights nor that of the Courts
better instructed resolves, generously to Cede to England the Houses
Gardens & Offices uch have with so much labour been cultivated."
On these subjects I have already acknowledged my thanks for the
genrous disposition of the Spanish Court in leaving those Offices &d
for our Convenience; these however I consider as erected on the
Territories of which the British Subjects were dispossessed in April 

1789. 

I have the Honour to be with Sentiments of the sincerest regard
& Esteem 

Geo. Vancouver. 

In response Bodega y Quadra is no less ready in pressing his
point of the attack with the object of at any rate disarming his
opponent, as his replv of the same date exemplifies: 

Nootka 13 September 1792. 

Sor Dn. George Vancouver, Commander &c., &c.
Sir:— 

I thought after the verbal conversation wch we had the dif-
ficulties you had put to me were settled, & that we had both
complied with our duty, but seeing by your attentive letter of the
13 currt that you do not conform I repeat, I will leave you in
Posesion not only of the territories wch were taken from his Brittanick
subjects in April 1789 but also that wch was then occupied by the
Natives of the Place, & now by the Spaniards in consequence of
the Cession made in their favor by Maquinna. But you have not
the power to controvert, nor I to adjudge the property of this Land;
thus I hope it will be convenient to you to have the possession of the
whole, & well inform our Sovereigns, & they will decide the most
Just. 

This medium I think the most conformable to the Pacific Spirit
of the Courts as in the Seventh Article of the Convention, its orderd
that 'in all cases of Quarrels or the infraction of the Articles of the
present Convention, The Officers of the one & the other Party
without passing to any violence or act of Force, are to give an exact 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 187 

relation of the case & of its circumstances to their respective Courts
•who icill terminate Amicably such differences. All ours consists in
the rights of Possession & property. 

You say you are authorize! to recieve the whole, I am not for to
deliver in those terms. In this Idea I judge we shall be under the
necessity to instruct our Kings of the truth of things of wch they
have no knowledge, & that for my part there may not be the least
motive for Disgust, nor for you to sufTer any extortion. I am ready
to deliver all that was occupied by the English in that Epoch as a
thing belonging to Great Brittain & to leave you in possession of the
remaining Land. Reserving only the right of Property, wch I have
not the power to alienate, & according to my method of thinking,
ought to be preservd Jointly with the Brittanick Subjects & to comply
in this manner with the sense of the treaty. 

For what respects the Houses, Gardens & Offices, I in nothing
vary from my first expressions wch were always limited with these
words — without prejudice to our legitimate right, or what the Courts
better instructed may resolve. This is without renouncing the
propertv wch 1 comprehend ought to remain in favor of the King
my Master. I shall be happy to have in answer the pleasure to find
ynu arc fuilv satisfied & that you will Live persuaded of the sincerity
with which I esteem you 

Sir 

Your afifectionate Servant 

(Signed) Juan Fran*^" de la Bodega y Quadra. 

In replv to the foregoing, Vancouver's succeeding despatch is
unconditional and demands an unconditional surrender or a cessation
of the negotiations, in the following terms: 

On board his Britannic Majesty's Ship Discovery, Friendly Cove,
Nootka Sound, 15 September 1792. 

Sir:— 

I have reed your letter of tiie 13 and in reply have only
to say that like the former ones it contains nothing but a discussion
of right, which as 1 have before observd is diametrically foreign to
the business we are orderd to execute, that subject having already
been thoroughly investigated by the Ministers appointed by the
respective Courts for that purpose as is fully explaind in the preamble 

188 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

to the late Treaty. You likewise mention Mr. Meares's Vessels being
under Portuguese Colours, that is equally foreign, Mr. Fitzherbert&
the Count of Florida Blanca being as well informd of that subject as
we are by Mr. Meares's original petition to the Parliament of Great
Britain I am therefore only here as I have before repeatedly
mentiond, to recieve & be put into full possession of, on the part of
his Britannic Majesty the territories the British Subjects were dis-
possessed of in April 1789 wch are this Place & Port Cox. — this is the
Place which was then occupied by the said subjects, here they were
captured; their Vessels sent as prizes, & themselves Prisoners, to New
Spain; by wch means this place was forcibly wrested from them, &
occupied & fortified by the Officers of the Spanish Crown. 

This place therefore agreable to the first Article of the Con-
vention & the Count of Florida Blanca's first letter (of wch the
British Court has transmitted me a true translation) with that of
Clyoquot or Port Cox are to be restord without any reservation
whatever on which terms & on those terms only I am here to recieve
the said territories, & must here insist on declining any further cor-
respondence on this Subject except recieving your positive Answer
wether you will or will not restore to me on the part of his Britannic
Majesty the said territories & in respect to the 7th Article of the
Convention, in the present instance, there can be no appeal whatever,
you being orderd to restore the said territories & I orderd to recieve
them, your will therefore favor me with vour final answer on that
subject, permitting me to remain &c. &c. 

Geo. Vancouver. 

Sor. Dn. Juan Franco, de la Bodega y Quadra. 

On September 17th, however the negotiations came to an abrupt
termination. After many diplomatic notes had passed between the
two officers. Bodega y Quadra signified that he could not depart
from the terms of his offer "lemnng me in possession only, not
formally restoring the territory of Nootka to Great Britain." Two
days later Vancouver, finding Bodega y Quadra still firm in his
determination, "considered any further correspondence totally
unnecessary; and instead of writing, I requested in conversation the
next day to be informed if he was positively resolved to adhere, in
the restitution of this country to the principles contained in his last 

180 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

their arrival and departure — "the day was afterwards spent in cere-
monious ofifers of courtesy, with much harmony and festivity." The
same evening Vancouver, with as many of his officers as could be
spared, were entertained at dinner by the Spanish Commandant,
and were "gratified with a repast we had lately been little accustomed
to, or had the most distant idea of meeting with at this place. A
dinner of five courses, consisting of a superfluity of the best pro-
visions, was served with great elegance; a royal salute was fired on
drinking health to the sovereigns of England and Spain, and a salute
of seventeen guns to the success of the service in which the Discovery
and Chatham were engaged." '■' The notorious chief Maquinna sat
at the table. 

It is amply testified not only by Vancouver, but as well by the
American traders who had visited the port of Nootka during the
Spanish regime, that Bodega y Quadra was ever profuse in his
hospitality. One of the furtraders records that the dinner service
was of solid silver and that the viands were always of the best. The
pour parleys were auspicious and all seemed well-pleased, although
the occasion must have been a sad one for Bodega y Quadra, who,
no doubt, could not help observing the elation of the British officers. 

There was one person, however, who looked with sullen eye
upon the festivities that marked the meeting. Maquinna, the Nootkan
Chief, did not disguise his regret that his friends the Spaniards were
about to leave the place. His first meeting with the British was
unfortunate and did not tend to promote a regard for the new masters
of the port. Maquinna had visited the Discovery early on the morn-
ing after the arrival of Vancouver, but the sentinels and officers of
the watch, not knowing his rank, had turned him away. He bitterly
resented this indignity and angrily complained to Bodega y Quadra
of the afifront that had been offered him. The Spaniard "very
obligingly found means to soothe him," and after presents of blue
cloth, copper and other articles, he appeared to be satisfied. Van-
couver relates, however, that "no sooner had he drank a few glasses
of wine, than he renewed the subject, regretted the Spaniards were
about to quit the place, and asserted that we should presently give
it up to some other nation; by which means himself and his people
would be constantly disturbed and harassed by new masters. Seiior 

'^Vancouver's Voyage, Quarto ed., vol. i, p, 385. 

KKIKXDLV (0\"K. XUOTKA .SOUND 

SALMON' COVK. OliSKKNAIdi: V IXLKl 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 181 

Quadra took much pains to explain that it was our ignorance of his
person which had occasioned the mistake, and that himself and
subjects would be as kindly treated by the English, as they had been
by the Spaniards. He seemed at length convinced by Senor Quadra's
arguments, and became reconciled by his assurance that his fears
were groundless." Vancouver added that "I could not help observing
with a mixture of surprise and pleasure, how much the Spaniards
had succeeded in gaining the good opinion and confidence of these
people; together with the very orderly behaviour, so conspicuously
evident in their conduct towards the Spaniards on all occasions." ^* 

After this ceremonious interchange of courtesies, the business of
the hour, that of settling what lands were to be surrendered, engaged
the attention of the British and Spanish Commanders. Before Van-
couver's arrival. Bodega y Quadra had sedulously collected evidence
bearing upon the dispute between Martinez and Colnett, Hudson,
Duncan, and Funter, the men commanding the ships of the com-
pany of which Meares was the moving spirit. He had obtained a
joint letter from Gray and Ingraham, of the Columbia and JVashing-
ton, dealing at some length with the events of 1789.^^ 

The statement of the American captains is all in favour of the
Spanish contention, and much has been made of it by American
historians in after years. In view of this fact, Robert Duffin's letter
to Vancouver, written on September 26, 1792, at Nootka, is of
peculiar interest. It reads as follows: 

To Cap" George Vancouver, Commander of His Majesty's Ships
Discovery, and Chatham, now Laying in Friendly Cove; Nootka or
King George's Sound. 

Sir:— 

Whereas dififerent reports have been propagated, relative to>
what right Mr. Meares had for taking Possession of the Land in
Friendly Cove Nootka Sound : I shall here state with that Candor,
and Veracity, which has always influenced me on such Occasions ;^
an impartial account of Mr. Meares's proceedings in the above Port. 

Toward the Close of the Year 1787, a commercial Expedition
was undertaken bv John Henry Cox, Esqr. & Co. — Merchants then 

'* Vancouver's Voyage, Quarto ed., vol. i, pp. 385-86. 

"•This letter is given in Greenhow's Oregon anil California (London, 1844), pp. +14-17.. 

182 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

residing at Canton, who accordingly Fitted and equipped; two ships,
for the Fur Trade, on the N. West Coast of America. — 

The conduct of this Expedition was reposed in John Meares
Esqr. as commander in Chief, and sole conductor of the Voyage,
and who was likewise one of the Merchant Proprietors; these V^essells
were Equipped, under Portuguese Colours; with a view, to mitigate
those Heavey port charges imposed on Ships of ever\- Nation (Portu-
guese only excepted) which circumstance, is well known to every
commercial Gentleman trading to that part of the World. 

Under these circumstances, the said Vessells were fitted in the
Name and under the Firm, of John Cavallo Esqr. a Portuguese
Merchant, then residing at Macao; but he had no property in them
whatsoever, both their Cargoes being intirely British property, and
solely navigated by the subjects of His Britanic Majesty. 

We arrived at the said port, in Nootka Sound, in May 1788, on
our first arrival, in the above port the two chiefs Maquilla, and
Calicum were absent. On their return which was either on the 17th
or i8th of the same month, Mr. Meares, accompanied by myself, and
Mr. Robt. Funter, our 2nd officer, went ashore and treated with the
said Chiefs; for the whole of the land that forms Friendly Cove, in
Nootka Sound, in his Britanic Majesty's Name, and accordingly
bought it of them, for 8, or 10, Sheets of Copper, and several other
trifling Articles. — The Natives were fully satisfied with their agree-
ment. The Chiefs, likewise their subjects, did homage to Mr. Meares
as their Sovereign, using those formalities, that are peculiar to
themselves, and which Mr. .Meares has made mention of in his
publication. 

The British Flag was displayed; on shore, at the same time;
those formalities were used as is customary on such occasions (and
not the Portuguese Flag, as has been insinuated by several people
who were not present at the time; consequently advanced those
assertions without a Just Foundation) on our taking Possession of the
Cove, in his Majesty's Name, as aforementioned, Mr. Meares caused
a house to be erected on the very spot, where the Chatham's tent now
stands; it being the most convenient part of the Cove for our inten-
tions. The Chiefs, with their subjects, ofifered to quit the Cove
entirely and reside at a place called Tashers; and leave the Place to 

MACUINA
Xc'fc tie Nutka 

TETACr
Xefu dc hi cMlrailii ili-l Kstreclu) dr .liiiin .K' Kuea 

I 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 183 

ourselves as sole masters, and owners, of the whole Cove, and Lands
adjacent. 

Consequently we were not confined merely to that Spot; but had
equall Liberty to Erect a house in any other part of the Cove but
chose the Spot we did for the above mentioned reason. 

Mr. Meares therefore appointed, Mr. Robt. Funter, to reside
in the house, which consisted of three Bed Chambers and a Mess-
room for the Officers, and proper apartments for the Men, — the
above apartments were elevated about 5 feet from the ground, under
these were other apartments for putting our stores in — exclusive of
House were several sheds, and out houses, built for the conveniency
of the artificers to Work in. 

On Mr. Meares' departure; the said House, &c., was left in good
condition, and he enjoined Maquilla to take care of it until he
(Mr. Meares) or some of his associates should return, on the Coast
again. 

It has been reported by several people that on Don Jose Estn.
Martinez's Arrival in the Cove, there was not a Vestige of the said
House remaining. However that might be I cannot tell, as I was
not at Nootka when he arrived. On our return in July, 1789, in
the said Cove, we found it Occupied by the Subjects of His Catholick
Majesty; and likewise some People belonging to the Ship Columbia,
commanded by Mr. John Kendrick, under the Flag and Protection
of the United States of America had their Tents, and out houses
erected on the same Spot where our House formerly stood, but I saw
no remains of our Architecture. 

We found laying at Anchor in the said Cove His Catholick
Majesty of Spain's Ships — Princessa and San Carlos and likewise
the Ship Coliinihia and Sloop JVashington. 

The second Day after our arrival, we were captured by Don Jose
Estn. Martinez, and the Americans were suffered to Carry on their
Commerce with the Natives unmolested. 

This Sir, is the Best information I can give you that might tend
to elucidate the propriety of Mr. Meares's taking Possession of the
Village of Nootka and Friendly Cove. 

Should anyone whatsoever doubt the truth of this Protest, 1 am 

184 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

always readey to attest it before any Court of Judicature, or any one
Person duly Authorized to Examine Me. 

I have the Honor to be with the Greatest Esteem, Sir, 

Your most Obedient and very Hum '« Servant, 

ROBT. DUFFIN. 

The said Robert DufBn sworn to
the truth of the beforemen-
tioned relation, before me,
in Friendly Cove, Nootka
Sound, the 26th day of Sept-
ember, 1792. 

Geo. Vancouver. 

The Spaniard opened the negotiations with a letter respecting the
restitution to be made, transmitting therewith all the correspondence
in his possession dealing with the question and the evidence he had
gathered during his residence at Nootka. From the first it seemed
that a deadlock must ensue for Bodega y Quadra averred that there
was nothing to be handed over but part of the beach of Friendly Cove
and a small extent of land behind it, while Vancouver insisted that
the whole port should be surrendered. Neither officer seemed
inclined to yield. 

The Spaniard advanced the arguments used in the diplomatic
controversy between Great Britain and Spain in 1790, while Van-
couver insisted that the commissioners were in no way concerned
with the facts that had induced their respective Governments to
come to an understanding, but solely with the execution of the
definitive provisions of the treaty. Differ as they might, however,
with respect to their interpretations of the provisions of the Nootka
Convention the personal relations of Vancouver and Bodega y Quadra
were marked with the greatest cordiality. Vancouver's journal con-
tains many complimentary and friendly references to the Spanish
officer. There is no reason to believe that this regard was not mutual,
although Bodega y Quadra's private opinion of Vancouver has never
been published. The annals of this coast hardly afford a more
pleasing picture than that of the negotiations at Nootka in 1792
between the representatives of the British and Spanish Governments. 

I 

176 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

"Salamanca found the country he went to visit was covered with
brushwood and very straight pine trees; he saw the remains of the
village which the Indians had abandoned; and he returned to the
ship. 

"On the 1 8th we repaired the boat and continued the work of
taking in water, and in the afternoon we went in the launch to visit
the interior of the mouths of Wintuysen, and examine the ends of the
creeks we had seen the day previous. The second mouth, reckoning
from our anchorage, is more sheltered than that of El Descanso, but
not so clear and good for anchorage. We afterwards went along a
Channel which turns to the E. S. E., and from its direction should
fall into the Archipelago we saw on the previous point to eastward
of the Port." 

It should be mentioned that the "Wintuysen" of the foregoing
extract was the name bestowed in 179 1 by the Spanish navigator,
Eliza, upon the inlet, the arms of which are known today as
Northumberland Channel, Nanaimo Harbour and Departure Bay.
The "Cala del Descanso" (Small Bay of Rest) of Galiano and Valdez
is the little haven of Gabriola Island, opposite Nanaimo, to which
the original name, Descanso, was restored in 1904 by Captain John H.
Parry, of H. M. surveying vessel, Ef/eria, as related by Captain
John T. Walbran in his well-known and exhaustive work on the
Coast Names of British Columbia. 

In due course the British explorer reached the broad channel
that separates the north eastern end of Vancouver Island from the
mainland. After emerging from the long, narrow passage, named
after Lieutenant James Johnstone, Vancouver, as heretofore, adopted
the plan of despatching boats in all directions to examine the inden-
tations of the continental coast. The cluster of large islands to the
north westward of the entrance to Knight's Canal was named
Broughton's Archipelago, in recognition of the services of the Com-
mander of the Chatham. The ships then anchored under Point
Gordon, at the entrance of Fife's passage, while the small boats were
employed in charting the various fiords, islands and rocks. 

It should be explained that Johnstone and Swaine had' been
despatched on July the 4th to examine the narrow passage leading
to Queen Charlotte Sound. The flying expedition passed through
Johnstone's Strait and made at midnight, in a torrent of rain, a small 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 177 

island under the lee of which they were partly sheltered from the
inclemency of the weather. Here the party were storm-bound until
.the morning of the loth, the dawn of which brought a change of
weather, which enabled them to reach "an island conspicuously
situated, from whence their expectations were gratified by a clear
though distant view of the expansive ocean." This observation
determined once for ail the insular character of the Nootka region.
As the boat had only been provisioned for seven days, Johnstone
was compelled to lose no time in returning to the ships, which were
reached safely early on the morning of the 12th. 

It was not until Johnstone and Swaine returned with the news
of a channel to the northward, communicating with the ocean, that
Galiano suggested that the British ships should proceed without the
Sutil and Mexicana. Thus, several days before the vessels of either
expedition reached the ocean to the northward, it had been clearly
established by the English officers that the Strait of Juan de Fuca
and Queen Charlotte's Sound were connected by a series of gulfs,
sounds and straits. 

On August 5th, Vancouver reached the ocean and steering a
northward course passed Cape Caution and entered Fitzhugh Sound,
where at four in the afternoon the Discovery suddenly grounded on
a shoal of sunken rocks. Fortunately the sea was calm; had it been
otherwise "nothing short of immediate and inevitable destruction
would have resulted from the untoward accident." The boat
remained in this "melancholy situation" until two in the morning of
the 7th, when with the rising tide, Vancouver had the "indescribable
satisfaction of feeling her again afloat without having received the
least apparent injury." On the evening of the seventh, the Chatham
met with a like misfortune, and for a time she was in a precarious
position. A thick fog coming in from the ocean hid the Chatham
from the Discovery, causing much anxiety to Vancouver; however
about nine on the following morning, the fog lifted and showed the
Chatham approaching under sail, apparently uninjured. The
Discovery weighed anchor and joined the tender and the two vessels
sailed southward in company. It was then that Vancouver confirmed
the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound given to the opening by Wedg-
borough of the Experiment in August, 1786. The American captains
Gray and Kendrick had called it Pintard's Sound. The Sound where 

178 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

the vessels had grounded was recognized as that named Fitzhugh's
Sound by Captain James Hanna, of the Sea Otter, on his second
voyage. 

Vancouver made Friendly Cove on the afternoon of Tuesday, .
August 28th, having been piloted to the anchorage by a Spanish
officer. Riding at anchor in the cove was the Spanish brig Actira,
flying the broad pennant of Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y
Quadra, Commandant of Port San Lorenzo de Nutka, as the inlet
was called by the Spaniards. Beside the Activa lay the store ship
Daedalus and a small merchantman, the Three Brothers, of London,
commanded by one Alder, late of the Royal Navy. As the Com-
mandant resided on shore. Lieutenant Puget was despatched to
acquaint him of the arrival of the British expedition and to state
that the Spanish flag would be saluted by the British vessels if the
Spaniards would return the compliment with an equal number of
guns. On receiving a polite message in reply. Vancouver saluted
the Spanish flag while the guns from the fort echoed the martial
salutation. Vancouver, accompanied by some of his officers then
called upon Bodega y Quadra, who received the party with the
greatest cordiality. 

The meeting was historic inasmuch as never before had ships
of the royal navies of Great Britain and Spain exchanged courtesies
on the Northwest coast. Moreover, the two commanders, Vancouver
and Bodega y Quadra, had been authorized by their respective
Governments to give effect to the terms of the Nootka Convention,
of which treaty it may be truly said that it marked a turning point
in the history of Northwestern America. That agreement had
brought the two greatest colonizing powers of the world face to face
in the Pacific, and, as the loyal Iriarte sorrowfully observed, this
meant much to Spain. 

Of the two men who conducted the historic negotiations at
Nootka in September, 1792, the Spaniard lost nothing in comparison.
The memory of the British officer, George Vancouver, is revered
by his countrymen, and nearly all that can be known of his character
and career is known. He was a brave and painstaking commander —
neither so brilliant nor so successful as the immortal Cook who had
trained him — vet an accomplished navigator, an excellent disciplin-
arian, kindhearted, courageous and resourceful; a man to whom 

5" ^ 

i 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 179 

duty always came first; just such a man, in fact, as the British Navy
has ever given to the service of the Empire. Of the Spaniard, all
too little is known, but that which is known redounds to his credit.
Brave, courteous, honourable, noble in appearance and charming
in manner, Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra was the
personification of Spanish grace and sagacity. If the management
of Spanish affairs in tlic Pacific had always been in such able hands
there might have been no Nootka Affair and today no Canadian
seaboard in the west. In the long story of Spanish dalliance and
futile effort in the North Pacific, the name of Bodega y Quadra is
conspicuously associated with the only real attempt ever made by
Spain to vindicate her policy and to establish her sovereignty
in that quarter. As Commandant of San BJas and as Governor of
Nootka he had exerted all his influence in behalf of the northern
enterprise and had sought to fortifv his country's position; but he
came too late. 

Bodega y Quadra was at this time about forty-eight years of age.
Of his lineage it is known that he came of a noble house. He was
the son of Don Thomas de la Bodega, and his wife, Francisca
Mollinado, a native of Lima (where her son was born about the
year 1744), but of pure Cjalician descent. It appears that "Quadra"
had been added to his father's name at the request of a relative, Don
Antonio de la Quadra, who resided in Peru at the time that Thomas
de la Bodega emigrated to that country.'- The noble-hearted Span-
iard died in March, 1794, either at San Bias, or at his country
house at Tepic, a small town about si.xty miles from the coast. 

Such were the two men who met at Nootka in the summer of
1792, the one to hand over and the other to receive the property
claimed by the British Government. I'he story of that meeting has
almost been forgotten, but in the annals of the Northwest coast it
holds an important place — for its human interest as well, because
it marked the end of Spanish sovereignty ami heralded the dawn
of a new era. 

The day following the arrival of the Discovery and C.luithdiu
was observed by an interchange of hospitality. In the morning
Bodega y Quadra with several of his officers breakfasted with Van-
couver. Thev were received with due formalitv and saluted on 

' Meanv, Vancouver anil Piifzct Sound. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 173 

who were giving sardines to our sailors: we gave them in return
beads and other tokens of friendship, but without being able to inspire
them with entire confidence. 

"On this day thirty-nine canoes with two or three Indians apiece
came together round the Schooners. We did not find any remark-
able difference between their physiognomy and that of the other
natives who had visited us in the Strait; but on the other hand we
could not help noticing the fact that many of them squinted, and they
wore their whiskers covered with short hair, the beards with pear-
shaped ornaments, and their eyebrows rather thick. Their clothes
were reduced in general to blankets of coarse and well woven wool,
fastened by two pins on the shoulder, but only long enough to reach
to the knees. An occasional one wore a deerskin, particular attention
being called to that which covered the man who appeared to be the
Tais, who wore besides a second woollen blanket on top, a hat in the
form of a truncated cone, five brass bracelets on the right wrist, and
a hoop of copper round his neck, very similar to the one we had
seen on an Indian in lat. 60° the year before. Some wore hats and
many were painted with red ochre; they came smiling, appeared
gentle, and if not stupid at least dull of understanding. The idiom is
entirely different from that of Nootka, and they make even greater
gutteral noises and aspirates, so that it appeared to us more difficult
to learn. 

"They offered us in exchange great quantities of sardines, sun-
dried and smoked, and arms, namely: arrows, some having well
shaped points of flint or mussel shell, others of bone and serrated;
clubs of whalebone, and medium-sized bows of fairly strong and
flexible wood. They also offered new blankets which we afterwards
concluded were of dog's hair, partly because when the woven hair
was compared with that of those animals there was no apparent
difference, and partly from the great number of dogs they keep in
those villages, most of them being shorn. These animals are of
moderate size, resembling those of English breed, with very thick
coats, and usually white: among other things they differ from those
of Europe in their manner of barking, which is simply a miserable
howl. 

"It was very easy for us to see that in spite of the pleasure we
endeavoured to show, and the continual proofs of friendship which 

174 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

we gave these Indians, \vc could not obtain their confidence. They
were always hesitating and suspicious; the slightest movement upset
them, and this frequently interrupted our communication. 

"They prized beads and Monterey shells, the pearl of which
they use for ornaments, and they value pieces of rough iron more
than that manufactured into knives or razors, perhaps because they
use them for points for arrows, harpoons and other things. 

"Very noteworthy is the difference in character which we per-
ceived in the natives in such a short distance as that which lies
between the mouths of Porlier and those of Wintuysen. The former
are trusting and aflfable; the latter suspicious and disagreeable. But
is not the same difference sometimes seen between neighbouring
settlements, and more civilized nations? And if in towns living
under the same laws the circumstances of education are sufficient
for this to happen, whv is it strange that the same thing should occur
among these Tribes, who are apparently independent, and have no
constant intercourse, as we have observed by noting that the canoes
do not go beyond a certain distance away from the villages? Navi-
gators must keep these reflections in mind and never trust the savages
of the Coasts, even if thev have found those of other neighbouring
villages humane and amiable. 

"We gave ourselves up to rest for the night, dividing our crew
into four watches, and setting sentinels accordingly, so that by their
vigilance the others might rest quietly. The night was peaceful and
there was no disturbance in the anchorage throughout it. 

June i6th. — "We spent part of the following day in arranging and
making fair copies of our rough notes of observations, points of refer-
ence and calculations, and information of all kinds, which, as jottings
made in the midst of the duties and active work of the ships, required
to be expanded in good form and order before other new ideas con-
fused those already acquired. We likewise continued to replenish
the water, of which we found that at that season thirty barrels daily
could be got in the place we were in. 

"The Savages did not overcome their distrust however much we
endeavoured to make them understand our peaceable views: no
entreaties or attentions sufficed to induce the Chief to come on board
the Sutil, and all the Canoes kept close together and were along-
side the Schooner in great trepidation. Nevertheless they went on 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 175 

making exchanges without difficulty and supplying us with fish until
the afternoon, when upon the boat putting ofif from the Sutil to go
to land, all those who were near became alarmed and went ofi with-
out daring to approach the Schooner during the rest of the day. Later
on two Canoes appeared in the anchorage, and arrested our attention
by the evil appearance of the four Indians who came in them, for
they were all squint-eyed and of very disagreeable countenances.
They showed us their weapons, and gave us to understand that they
did not lack courage: we responded with signs of friendship and
kindness, and they withdrew, more arrogant about their own bravery
than satisfied as to our intentions. 

"On no other part of the coast had we seen such an ingenious
method of fishing as among these Indians. They took in each Canoe
a very well made harpoon of mussel shell, mounted on a fairly long
rod with a hook at the other end. They also took a piece of wood in
the shape of a cone with some thin and flexible strips of bark fastened
in the periphery of its base like feathers, the whole being very like
a shuttlecock. They fixed this in the hook by its base that held the
feathers, and on seeing a fish at a great distance below the water
they put it in very gentlv, point downwards, and close to the head
of the fish. I'hey then pulled away the hook and the shuttlecock
went up to the surface with a rapidity which did not allow the fish
to see what it was. Deceived in this manner it followed the object
up to the surface of the water, and then the Indian, who had already
turned the rod and presented the harpoon, threw it at the fish, usually
with such accuracy that he seldom failed to hit it. 

June 17th. — "On the 15th and i6th the rain had been almost con-
tinual, but the 17th was a delicious Spring day. Under a clear sky a
pleasant country then presented itself to our view : the varied and bril-
liant green of some of the trees and meadows, and the grand roar of the
waters dashing upon the rocks in various creeks, charmed our senses
and afiforded us a condition the more agreeable as we were the nearer
to the past dangers and fatigues. Desiring to utilize it for the benefit
of the crews and the advancement of our surveys, Salamanca went
out with five men armed and supplied with beads and other trifling
things, to go towards the site of the villages of the Indians to see if
they had dismantled them, as might be inferred from the passing
of the armed canoes. 

170 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

"after an exchange of good wishes, we bade each other farewell,
having experienced much satisfaction, and mutually received every
kindness and attention our peculiar situation could afford our little
society." 

Galiano and V^aldez exhibited praiseworthy zeal in following out
their instructions and, in spite of their inadequate equipment, they
succeeded in accomplishing a great deal. In common with other
Spanish explorers the reputations of these men have suffered from
the fact that the splendidly equipped British expeditions overshadowed
their really laudable efforts in the later days of Spanish activity in
these waters. Spain never did justice to her navigators, whose labours
were not given to the world until sometime after the reports of the
British explorers were made public. The Spanish literature on the
subject of the Northwest coast is meagre in the extreme, whereas
English literature of travel and geography has been enriched by nu-
merous monumental works on British enterprise in the North Pacific.
It is a relief therefore to find that the notable achievements of the
two Spanish commanders, Galiano and Valdez, have not been entirely
overlooked by their Government. 

The work of the expedition can best be portrayed by quoting from
the original journal, which has been specially translated for the
Archives Department of British Columbia. For instance under the
dates June 15th to i8th, 1792, the following entries appear: 

1792, June I qth. — "In the morning Vernachi went in the launch to
seek a good anchorage to N. W., of the one w'e were in, thinking to
find it within the Sounds of Porlier, from which we thought we were
not very distant: our position was midway between the two points
which lie to the S. E. of these sounds. 

"The wind began to freshen from the N. E., and our position
was growing serious if it should blow violently from that quarter.
At half-past eight in the morning the launch, which had started at
half-past four, was not yet in sight and its delay began to give us some
anxiety; but we saw it soon after, and it arrived alongside without
having found a desirable anchorage in the two leagues distance it
had travelled. 

"As the weather would not allow the Schooners to cross to the N.
coast, it was resolved to proceed in them in search of the desired
anchorage. Wc set sail at 9 in the morning hoping to find it in the 

Si 

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BRITISH COLUMBIA m 

Sound of Porlier; we reached the sound at mid-day, and entered
easily, without stopping to send the launch to reconnoitre it, for
although the wind which was blowing fresh from E. N. E., left us
directly we got under shelter of the point at the entrance, the waters
bore us inward, whither they were running swiftly. 

"Having got inside we saw an Archipelago of numbers of small,
low islands, and perceived that the Channel was divided into two
main branches, one running S. E., and the other W. ; it was at once
resolved to take the former, so as to continue to have the assistance
of the wind to get out if necessary. But when we had lost the shelter
of the coast, the Mexicana experienced such a squall of wind, in
the direction of the Channel, so strong that it put her in danger
of capsizing. We saw at once how risky it was to entangle ourselves
among these islands, the channels of which were unknown to us, and
were of no interest to examine. The wind, being compressed to
pass through the narrow space in the opening of the mountains, blew
with great force: the currents were rapid and had to take various
directions according as the multitude of islands demanded; and as
no shore whatever was visible, it seemed probable that there were
no convenient anchorages. As we could not go far inland, which
would keep us a long time in this place, to the detriment of the
important survevs in the direction of the mainland, it seemed prudent
to get out without delay. 

''But to get out of these Channels was not so easy as we expected.
The current had acquired such force that we could not overcome
it with the oars, and the wind was slack and gentle. So in order to
get into the main Channel wc had to spend two hours in constant
labour and danger. Ihe Mcxirmui managed it by passing to
windward of the small island that lies at the entrance, and very near
the end of its reef, in four fathoms, the stones being visible at the
bottom; but the Suiil, which was getting more and more involved
at the entrance, preferred to bear away so as to pass through
the narrow Channel formed bv the islet and the Coast, and did so
successfully. 

"There were in these Channels several deserted villages, and one
with inhabitants on the W. side of the sound; from the latter five
canoes came out with two old men and nineteen youths, all very
robust and good looking; they came up to the Schooners, gave us 

172 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

mulberries and shell fish, and took, in exchange buttons and beads;
and thinking that we wanted fresh water they went to their villages
and brought us some vessels full of it. 

"Free from the danger we had been in, we followed the Coast with
the object of finding a good anchorage; we sailed straight to the Point
of Gaviola, and not finding it there, we went on to the mouths of
Wintuysen, aided by a fresh v\'ind from the E., which cleared the
sky. We reached the E. point of the said mouths and passed between
them and the Islet: on doubling the said Point we saw two canoes
which followed close to the shore observing the movements of the
Schooners, and on coming athwart them they approached very
cautiously. To gain their confidence and friendship we gave those
who came in the canoes the best proofs of our intentions by throwing
them some strings of beads into their canoes; but we could not get
them to come near. We continued to proceed along the Coast with
the same object, until at last we discovered an anchorage at a mile
ofif the point, and as it seemed suitable we steered to it. We called
this roadstead "Cala del Descanso," from our need of rest and our
appreciation of the discovery on that occasion. We then reckoned
five days since our entrance into the Strait and in them not only
had we rectified but likewise added to the surveys of the previous
years; which served as recompense for our fatigues and labours, no
less than the hope of continuing the remaining tasks with equal result.
For this object we tried to fit ourselves by replenishing the wood and
water, and taking further measures which our position required with
all possible despatch. 

"When we had finished mooring the Schooners we landed on the
shore at the end of the creek, and tried to penetrate into the wood
in search of fresh water; but we had not gone far when we perceived
some natives of the country who made signs to us not to go further,
and others who were running apparently to inform their wives. We
gratified them by withdrawing, and made them understand why we
had come; then two of them took us to two verv poor springs which
were on the Coast, E. of the Port, about two cables beyond the
anchorage of the Schooners, and in one of these springs there were
three holes covered with semi-circular stones; this confirmed us in
the idea we already had of the scarcity of fresh water on those Coasts.
With this knowledge we returned to the beach and found six Indians 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 167 

there, repeating continually the cession he made to the king of Spain
of that port and the stores pertaining to it with all their products." '" 

The French frigate, La Flavia, of about five hundred tons, arrived
at Nootka while the Sutil and Mexicana lay at anchor there. The
Flavia flew the new national flag which was then seen for the first
time on this coast. The object was to trade for furs and to seek infor-
mation respecting the unfortunate La Perouse. 

The journal also relates that early in June, natives arrived to ask
Bodega y Quadra to assist them against a vessel which had attacked
a village in Esperanza Inlet, killing seven, wounding others, and
despoiling the rest of their otter skins. The Indians brought with
them a wounded man to be treated by the Spanish doctor. As far as
is known, this vessel was the Columbia, commanded by Captain Gray.
The natives related that the Americans, being unable to agree upon
the rate of exchange for furs, had used force to compel them to sur-
render their peltries. 

Having taken on board Luis Galvez, the surgeon of the Aranziizu,
the Sutil and Mexicana sailed for the Straits of Fuca and a few days
later came to anchor at the port of Nunez Gaona, now known as Neah
Bay, to which place the Spaniards had determined to transfer the
settlemeot at Nootka, in anticipation of the surrender of that port to
the British. Salvador Fidalgo, commanding the Princessa, was then
making preparations for the transfer, clearing a site for an orchard
and making yards for the cows, sheep, pigs and goats, brought from
San Bias. Nunez Gaona, however, was abandoned shortly after-
wards. It seems strange that an effort should have been made to estab-
lish a colony at this place, for it was but ill-adapted for settlement.
Although Quimpcr and Francisco Eliza had examined the straits
and the inland sea, as far as the Gulf of Georgia, called by the Span-
ish, "(iran Canal dc Nuestra Sonora del Rosario" (Grand Canal of
Our Lady of the Rosary), they had not completed their survey. 

The work of continuing the exploration of these inland waters had
been entrusted toGaliano and he now proceeded to carry out his
instructions. He liid not, like Vancouver, follow the continental
shore, but touched at the Port of Cordova, where now stands the city
of Victoria. "The port of Cordova is beautiful," runs an entry in the 

'" Voyage of Sulil ami Miwii anci: Barwick's Translation in arcliivos of British ("olnnihia,
pp. 17-18. 

168 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

journal of June 9th, "and affords good shelter for sailors; but the
water is shallow, as we saw, and Tetacus informed us : the land is very
irregular, of slight elevation, and, as the neighbourhood shows, the
surface of soil on the rock is of little depth. Nevertheless it is fertile,
covered with trees and plants, and these growths are almost the same
as those of Nootka, but wild roses are most abundant. Also rather
more birds are seen and more of the same kind of seagulls, ducks, king-
fishers, and other birds. It was in this port that the schooner Satur-
nina had to fire at the canoes of the inhabitants to protect the launch
of the Packet San Carlos, which came in her company, and which
launch they obstinately wanted to seize." " 

Galiano then made his way through the San Juan or Haro xA.rchi-
pelago, noticing on June 12th, flames to the southeast of Mount
Carmel (Mount Baker), which phenomenon was interpreted as indi-
cating the presence of an active volcano in that neighbourhood. In
crossing the Gulf of Georgia, two small boats were sighted, which it
was thought belonged to the two English ships, known to be exploring
the inland sea. The Spanish vessels at this time were making for the
Sound of Floridablanca (the Spanish name for the estuar\^ of the
Fraser River), in order to search for the river, which was supposed,
from the report of the natives, to empty into that bay, but the current
prevented them reaching the head of the channel, so they anchored
under Punta Langara (Point Grey) and here the British and Span-
ish expeditions met as already narrated. 

Naturally the explorers exchanged notes. Upon Vancouver point-
ing out the only spot he had left unexamined, at the head of Burrard
Inlet, Galiano and Valdez were much surprised that a large river,
which they had been told emptied into the waters of the Gulf of
Georgia, had not been seen. The mouth of the river is shown on the
Spanish chart between the Points Langara and Cepeda, the Spanish
names of Points Grey and Roberts of Vancouver. This river had been
named Rio Blanca, in honour of Count Floridablanca. It seems
almost beyond belief that Vancouver's small boats, for he had left
his ships at anchor in order to examine more carefully the bay and
inlets of the coast, should have failed to find the mouth of the Fraser
River. Yet such was the case. 

The Discovery and Chatham and the Sutil and Mexicana then 

11 Voyage of Sulil and Mexicana: Barwick's Translation, etc., pp. 42-43. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 169 

proceeded together in accordance with an arrangement made between
Vancouver and Galiano. In the neighbourhood of Desolation Sound,
a great school of whales was seen, which led Vancouver to observe
that — "this circumstance, in some measure, favoured the assertion in
Mr. Meares's publication, that a passage to the ocean would be found
by persevering in our present course; though this was again rendered
very doubtful, as we had understood, from our Spanish friends, that,
notwithstanding the Spaniards had lived upon terms of great intimacy
with Mr. Gray and other American traders at Nootka, they had no
knowledge of any person having ever performed such a voyage, but
from the history of it published in England; and so far were these
gentlemen from being better acquainted with the discoveries of De
Fuce or De Fonte than ourselves, that, from us, they expected much
information as to the truth of such reports." Vancouver then re-
marked that Valdez, who spoke the Indian language fluently, said
that the natives had told him that the inlet ''did communicate with
the ocean to the northward, where they had seen ships." Valdez,
however, it was observed, did not place much reliance in these reports.
In view of the extraordinary story concocted by Meares with regard
to Kendrick's reputed circumnavigation of Vancouver Island, the
remarks of the Spanish navigator are exceedingly interesting. 

The British and Spanish vessels continued in company for several
days and their officers were jointly engaged in a minute examination
of the continental shore. Each indentation was examined with care
in small boats commanded by Vancouver, Broughton, Mudge, Puget,
Baker, Whidby, and Johnstone, and the wealth of information
acquired was faithfully embodied in the great chart of Vancouver,
which must stand as a monument to that officer's zeal and ability.
The late Captain Walbran well crystallized the unanimous judg-
ment of scholars in stating that Vancouver carried on this survey
"with a zeal beyond all praise." On the i3tii of July, however, the
two expeditions parted companv off the entrance to Desolation Sound.
Galiano and Valdez "begging leave to decline accompanying us
further, as the powers they possessed in their miserable vessels were
unequal to a co-operation with us, and being apprehensive their
attendance would retard our progress." 

Vancouver and Galiano at this point again compared notes and
presented each other with copies of the charts they had made and 

BRITISH COLUMBIA I6;i 

Fonte, Juan Ladrillero, and Martin Chakc, and all the pretentions of
those who had averred their belief in the exploits of these impostors,
dissolved into thin air, leaving not a wrack behind. But more than
that, Vancouver not onlv laid at rest these stories, but he was the first
to establish the insular character of the land occupied by the Spaniards
in 1789. Before his day, the Indians had reported to Spaniard and
furtrader that behind Nootka lay channels of the sea, and indeed it
had been opined that the shores visited by adventurers in their search
for the pelt of the sea-otter were not part of the continent, but merely
a chain of islands that fringed the coast. Vancouver, however, was
the first explorer to establish this fact. 

In the evening of April 30th, the Ch(ith(U)i 2ind Disc ox'ery anchored
ofT New Dungeness. Perhaps it was a happy omen that May-Day
dawned bright and beautiful. But whether or no, there were any on
board superstitious enough to give heed to signs, the fact remains that
from that day until the beginning of August, when the vessels sailed
into Queen Charlotte's Sound, no serious mishap befell the expedition.
Proceeding from New Dungeness, Vancouver sailed through Admir-
alty Inlet to Puget Sound, thence past Whidby Island, the beautiful
San Juan or Haro Archipelago, and, still hugging the continental
shore, by Bellingham Bay and Lummi Island into the southern end of
the Gulf of Georgia; thence on to Semiahmoo and Boundary Bays,
Points Roberts and Grey, to the entrance of Burrard Inlet. Point
Grey was so named "in compliment to my friend Captain George
Grey of the Navy," and Point Roberts "after mv esteemed friend and
predecessor in the Discovery." ' 

Here again Vancouver failed to find a large river. Between these
points the Eraser embouches into the Gulf of Georgia, but although
in crossing from one point to the other, the strong current of the river,
and its vast sand-banks forced the small boat, in which the explorer
was making his examination, far into the Gulf and although it was
noticed that the intermediate space was occupied bv low land, appar-
ently a swampy flat that extended several miles back from the shore,
the river of which this swampy flat was the delta was not discovered.
Moreover, it was observed that the water "nearly half over the Gulph,
and accompanied bv a rapid tide was nearly colourless, whicli gave us
some reason to suppose that the northern branch of the Sound might 

" A'ancouver's Voyage, Quarto e<l., vol. i, pp. 299-300. 

164 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

possibly be discovered to terminate in a river of considerable extent."
Between Points Grey and Atkinson, Vancouver found the narrow
entrance of a long canal, which he examined with care, little thinking
that on the shore of this inlet was to arise a great city, destined to be
the western metropolis of the greatest Dominion of the British Empire.
That inlet was named Burrard's Canal after Sir Harry Burrard. 

Following the v^'estern shore of the Gulf he had named in honour
of the reigning sovereign, George III., Vancouver discovered and
explored the inlet named after Sir John Jervis. Returning to Point
Grey, where it was the intention to land and breakfast, Vancouver
fell in with tw'o little Spanish vessels, the Sutil and Mexicana, com-
manded respectively by Don Dionisio Galiano and Don Cayetano
Valdez. These vessels proved to be a detachment from the expedi-
tion of the accomplished but unfortunate Malaspina, then in the serv-
ice of Spain. Galiano and Valdez had entered the strait five days
after the British expedition, and since that time had been engaged in
examining the coasts partly surveyed by Spanish officers in previous
years. 

Vancouver, who up to that time, had not known that the waters he
had explored had been visited by the Spaniards, was not altogether
pleased to find this the case. 'T cannot avoid acknowledging," he
says in his journal, "that, on this occasion, I experienced no small
degree of mortification in finding that the external shores of the Gulph
had been visited, and already examined a few miles beyond where my
researches during the excursion, had extended." * 

Here on that summer morning of one hundred and twenty years
ago, chance caused the two exploring expeditions to meet. In a man-
ner it may be described as an historic occasion, for the one signified
the rise of a new power, and the other marked the close of Spanish
effort on the Northwest coast. The well equipped British vessels
were in marked contrast to the little galleys of Spain. The meeting
was observed by an interchange of courtesies between the British and
Spanish officers. 

Almost the first news imparted to Vancouver was that Bodega y
Quadra, the commandant of San Bias in California, was awaiting the
arrival of the British Commissioner at Nootka, in order to restore the
disputed territory to the Crown of Great Britain, in accordance with 

* Vancouver, Voyages, London, 1798, vol. i, p. 312. 

FALLS AT INDL^N RIVER TOSI'
Head of North Arm, Burrard Inlot 

I 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 165 

terms of the Nootka Convention. Vancouver speaks in high terms of
the behaviour of the Spanish officers : "Their conduct was replete with
that politeness and friendship which characterizes the Spanish nation;
every kind of useful information they cheerfully communicated, and
obligingly expressed much desire, that circumstances might so concur
as to admit of our respective labours being carried on together; for
which purpose, or, if from our long absence and fatigue in an open
boat, I would wish to remain with my party as their guest, they would
immediately despatch a boat with such directions as I might deem
necessary for the conduct of the ships, or, in the event of a favourable
breeze springing up, they would weigh and sail directly to their sta-
tion; but, being intent on losing no time, I declined their obliging
offers, and having partaken with them a very hearty breakfast, bade
them farewell,, not less pleased with their hospitality and attention,
than astonished at the vessels in which they were employed to execute
a service of such a nature. They were each of about forty-five tons
burthen, mounted two brass guns, and were navigated by twenty-four
men, bearing one lieutenant, without a single inferior officer. Their
apartments just allowed room for sleeping places on each side, with a
table in the intermediate space, at which four persons with some
difficulty, could sit, and were in all other respects, the most ill cal-
culated and unfit vessels that could possibly be imagined for such an
expedition; notwithstanding this, it was pleasant to observe, in point
of living, they possessed many more comforts than could reasonably
have been expected." " 

The Sntil and Mexicann were fitted out at Acapulco as an adjunct
of Malaspina's expedition in the Dcscuhierta and Atrevida, but these
vessels had sailed before the schooners reached that port. The voyage
was undertaken for the purpose of continuing the examination of the
Straits of Fuca, commenced by Manuel Quimper, under Don Fran-
cisco Eliza, who had been ordered in 1790 to survey that inlet. It is
stated in the official narrative of the expedition that Estevan Martinez,
in sailing down the coast in the Santiago in the year 1774 had sighted
a broad entrance a little to the north of the 48th parallel. In
the logof the Santiago, however, no mention is made of that discovery.
The Sntil carried Dionisio Galiano, who commanded the expedition,
Secundino Salamanca and seventeen men; and the Mcxirana, Caye- 

• Vancouver's Voyage, Quarto ed., vol. i, pp. 313-14. 

166 BRITISH COLUMBIA 

tano V'aldez, Juan Vernachi, Josef Cordero, draughtsman, and the
same complement of men as the Sutil. In view of Vancouver's remarks
upon the size and equipment, it is interesting to note that the dimen-
sions of each ship were as follows: Keel — 46 feet, 10 inches; Length
over all — 50 feet, 3 inches; Beam — 13 feet, 10 inches; Aft-hold — 6
feet, 2 inches; Forehold — 5 feet, 8 inches. The armament consisted
of one three-pounder, four falcons, eighteen muskets, twenty-four
pistols, and eighteen sabres. 

The Sutil and Mexicana sailed from the Mexican port on March
8th, and, after a stormy voyage, in which the latter was dismasted,
reached Nootka on May 12th, finding there Francisco Eliza, with the
frigate Concepcion, the Santa Gertrudis, Alonso de Torres com-
mander, and the brigantine Activa. Bodega y Quadra had arrived
but a few days before to carry out the convention concluded between
the Spanish Court and that of England in 1790. Galiano's journal
throws an interesting light upon the Spanish occupation of Nootka, ,
and especially upon the relations that existed between his country-
men and the natives. "While we were in this port," he writes on one
occasion, ''we saw with particular gratification the close friendship
which reigned between the Spaniards and the Indians. Maquinna,
influenced by the presents and good treatment of Commander Quadra,
had come to live very near the ships. He ate from the Commander's
table daily, and, though not at it, was very near, and used his knife
and fork like the most polished European, allowing himself to be
waited on by the servants, and amusing everybody by his merry
humour. He drank wine with pleasure, and left to others, so as not
to muddle his brain, the care of limiting his quantum of that liquor,
which he called "Water of Spain." He was usually accompanied by
his brother, Quatlazape, for whom he showed great affection. Some
of his relatives and vassals also generally dined in the cabin, and for
these latter a dish of beans or haricots, food they most preferred, was
set daily. Maquinna was endowed with clear and alert talent, and
very well knew his rights of sovereignty. He complained of the treat-
ment of the foreign vessels which traded on the Coast, on account of
certain vexations which he said his people had received. He denied
that he had ceded the port of Nootka to the English lieutenant,
Meares, and only acknowledged that he had allowed him to settle 

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